If you own any recent Toyota model that has power locks and an automatic transmission, you have the ability to change the sequence for the locking and unlocking of the doors – as determined by the current mode.
This adjustment is not really a repair but will help you to “fix” the issue if the car is set in a mode that you do not like.
Your choice is between four modes that are preprogrammed into the vehicle:
- Mode 1 – This mode connects the shift position with automatic door locking – but notably not unlocking. When the key is in the ignition and in the “On” position, and when all doors are shut, they will automatically lock when you move the shift lever out of “Park.”
- Mode 2 – This mode simply turns off the feature. Automatic locking and unlocking will be nonoperational.
- Mode 3 – Similarly to Mode 1, this mode ties both locking and unlocking of doors with the shift position. With the key in the “On” position and with all doors shut, you will auto-lock them whenever you move the shift lever from “Park.” In turn, the doors will auto-unlock whenever you bring the shift lever back to “Park.”
- Mode 4 – This mode connects not just the shift position but also the key position to the automatic locking and unlocking system. With the key set to “On” and all of the doors shut, you will auto-lock the doors when you move out of “Park” with the shift lever. In turn, all the doors will auto-unlock when you turn the key to “Off” while the shift lever is in “Park.”
Switching between modes
Now that you know what your options are, how do you change from one to another? Here are the six steps:
- Look at the control knob for the dome light. Change the position to “Door.”
- Make sure all the doors are shut and that your shift lever is set to “Park.”
- Put the key in the ignition, and turn it so it is set to “On.”
- Once you are in the “On” position, and before 5 seconds has passed, push down the door lock switch on the driver’s side, keeping it down for 5 seconds.
- The number of flashes that come from the dome light will tell you the mode to which the automatic locking system is currently set. One flash tells you that you are in mode 1, while two, three, and four flashes signal that you are in modes 2-4, respectively.
- Push the switch to change to a different mode. It will flash to let you know the new mode. Keep pushing the switch until you get to the one you want.
You now know how to switch your Toyota car into any of the four different modes for automatic locking and unlocking – one of which (Mode 2) shuts it off completely, if that is your preference. Again, although not a Toyota repair, this project will allow you to have better control of the car and to fix the situation if you are frustrated by the way that this automatic feature is currently configured.
Note that your choice of auto-locking and auto-unlocking mode will be forgotten by the car computer if the car battery dies or becomes disconnected. If that occurs, the vehicle will be reset to Mode 1.
Toyota News & Information
Now you know how to switch your mode so that you are in control of how your automatic system is set to lock and unlock your doors. With that tutorial complete, we can turn to recent news stories that may be of interest to you as the owner of a Toyota:
- Toyota wins 4 crowns in 2018 Consumer Reports list
- Toyota develops more sustainable EV magnet
Toyota wins 4 crowns in 2018 Consumer Reports list
Each year Consumer Reports ranks the best cars, and the 2018 list amounts to an impressive display for Japanese carmaker Toyota.
Not all news has been positive for Toyota lately. It no longer has the planet’s leading volume of sales, eclipsed by Volkswagen and Nissan/Renault/Mitsubishi. Nonetheless, this Consumer Reports ranking shows that the carmaker is a strong choice for buyers, with critical assessments (drawing on many thousands of perspectives) that do not consider where a car stands in the popularity contest.
Consumer Reports is taken very seriously because it does not allow any potential bias to be introduced either by advertisements or by getting cars from automakers – instead purchasing cars directly from dealerships. Related to performance, that information is gathered from its subscribers, so that all its information is as scientific as possible (both objective and derived from a large sample).
Within the magazine’s 2018 Top Picks, 4 of the 10 categories saw Toyota at the helm. The categories and victors were:
- compact car – Corolla
- midsize car – Camry
- midsize SUV – Highlander
- minivan – Sienna.
The basic reasons that the carmaker was successful with this 2018 list, according to Consumer Reports, were threefold: reliability of the car; the focus on safety features; and the accessible, mainstream design.
The magazine’s director of automotive testing, Jake Fisher, stressed that “really impressive reliability across the board” was essential in setting the brand apart from its competition.
Fisher also mentioned that the automaker was excelling in applying safety technologies – particularly forward-collision warning systems and automatic emergency braking – standardly throughout its lineup.
Toyota develops more sustainable EV magnet
Electric vehicles (EVs) are embraced as a way to cut down our reliance on fossil fuels, at least creating a new format of automobile for which fueling at the pump is unnecessary. One key issue with zero-emission electric cars, though, is that they require a rare-earth element (REE), neodymium. Toyota has become concerned that we are mining this mineral too quickly to supply the growing demand. It is currently developing magnets for its motors that cut in half the amount of neodymium needed to build one of its hybrid or electric models.
This decision is exciting news for environmentalism, both because of Toyota’s scope and because it has announced it will offer an electric version of all its cars within seven years. To reduce the amount of neodymium, the carmaker has turned to lanthanum and cerium, both more affordable and currently in more abundant supply.
The reason magnet engineers have typically used neodymium is that it can maintain magnetization to an incredible degree and also has extraordinary heat-tolerance. The simple act of including more cerium and lanthanum instead of the neodymium would have been insufficient, since the important magnetic capabilities would be reduced. Because the project was not a simple task, Toyota invested substantially to innovate breakthrough technology that would allow the motor to perform just as well with only 50% of the neodymium.
Perhaps the most compelling aspect of this new magnet technology is that it can be applied to electronics beyond automobiles. Appliances, robots, and any other objects that might have use for an affordable, sustainable high-temperature motor could utilize this new technology. These more environmentally friendly motors will be used in production cars starting in approximately 2020.
Honest Toyota repair in Boulder
Toyota cars are owner-friendly, as suggested by the ease of switching between locking modes and the great ratings from Consumer Reports. Plus, the brand is easy to like, with its sustainability strides. Nonetheless, Toyota repair and routine maintenance is sometimes needed. For those tasks, you want a mechanic who is credible and straightforward. At Independent Motors, Boulder’s neighborhood auto repair shop for 35 years, 90% of the work we do is repeat business. See our Toyota repair philosophy.
All you need to know about MINI Cooper Key Fob - TOP 7 features
BMW aims to provide its owners with amenities that just make their lives easier. The keyless entry key fob that comes with the BMW Comfort Access Vehicles has revolutionized the way you enter your BMW. Similarly, the MINI Cooper comes equipped with the key fob that helps you enjoy the luxuries of having a MINI even before you enter your car.
You might have a new MINI Cooper key replacement that has you dumbfounded or maybe you upgraded to a newer one and have a few questions buzzing around in your head. Here we’ll cover the most important functions of your fob – show you how it can help you control your car mirrors, close your trunk or even start your MINI remotely! Let’s dig into it:)
What are the MINI Cooper key fob functions?
Your MINI Cooper key fob carries out many functions. Amongst others it can:
- Raise and lower the windows to your MINI Cooper
- Remotely open and close your car’s trunk.
- Open and close the sunroof of your MINI Cooper.
- Initiate the panic button sequence in which the horns blare and the lights flash
- Change the seat and mirror positions of your MINI Cooper (creating your personal driver profile)
What is the MINI Cooper key fob’s most loved function? It sits snugly in the palm of your hand so you don’t have to worry about losing it :P Find out even more about key fob features.
MINI Cooper Remote Window Control
Did you know that you could have your car ventilated with fresh air even before you slide into the driver’s seat? You can choose to roll up and roll down your windows (and even sunroof) remotely just by pressing the ‘lock’ button on your MINI Cooper key fob. If you don’t have this feature yet, get it coded with BimmerTech!
MINI Cooper Remote Mirror Control
Having a hard time protecting your wing mirrors in tight spaces? Then the Remote Mirror Control got you covered! With this option you can fold and unfold your mirrors using the MINI Cooper key fob. You need to press and hold ‘lock’ to fold the mirrors on and unlock to unfold them back. If you have an older model, then we can code it for you.
MINI Cooper Remote Trunk Closing
Your MINI Cooper does not come with an automatic tailgate that can be closed remotely in case you forget to close it. The MINI Cooper key fob can be used to close your trunk remotely. All you need to do is press and hold the “lock” button down until the tailgate closes and guess what? This locks the doors as well, making sure your car is safe! This option is available on the MINI Cooper Countryman only. If you seem to have problems with your tailgate and need some pro-tips, then check our blog post. In case you have a version of the MINI Cooper that does not have an automatic tailgate and need to get the MINI Cooper Remote Trunk Closing option, this is where our coding comes in.
MINI Cooper Acoustical Lock Confirm
If your MINI Cooper comes with an inbuilt alarm, the vehicle can be coded for an acoustical lock confirmation. With a beeping sound, this will indicate when the vehicle is locked and unlocked. This is available in the MINI Cooper F55 and F56 models only.
Personal Driver Profiles
Isn’t it just horrible when someone messes with your seat positioning or your car settings in general? When someone comes along to drive your car and they change the perfect position you set your car seat in, you can only internally scream in anguish.
This is why BMW has come up with a feature known as the Personal Profile or the driver profile. This feature lets your car recognize which driver is driving the vehicle by distinguishing the key fob that is being used by the MINI driver. You can order additional MINI Key Fob and set different profiles on them according to your needs. These include the seat and mirrors adjustment, climate control or radio settings, along with many others that are suited to the driver’s specific needs.
It is very easy to create a profile. All you need to do is go into the MINI Connected menu choose the correct driver profile from there manually. You can also set up multiple Personal Profiles according to the number of fobs that you have.
Your MINI Cooper Key fob with its personal profile takes care of many things for you. These include:
- Unlocking and locking of your car.
- Light settings that you prefer the most.
- The climate control is set as per your requirement.
- Your favorite radio station is also set up in the volume.
- The rearview camera, side view, and the heads-up display adjustments.
- Your navigation and routes.
- The driver dynamics control is also part of this feature created by BMW to facilitate you.
- The adjustment of the driving seat, exterior mirror, steering wheel, and interior mirror positions.
- Intelligent safety that is set according to your driving style with active blind spot detection.
MINI Cooper Comfort Access
MINI Cooper’s comfort access system lets the owner open the car door and start the engine without having to touch the key at all. All you have to do is to have the key somewhere on you or near you.
The sensors are unique in the way that they will recognize you (by the key in your pocket or purse!) and proceed to unlock your car and ignite the engine. The vehicle detects you in the vicinity where you are about to enter the car and prepares the vehicle for you.
The MINI Cooper comfort access keyless entry supports and provides the function of locking and unlocking the vehicle along with unlocking the trunk lid separately. If you are wondering whether your MINI has Comfort Access, you just need to hop over to the article Everything you need to know about BMW Comfort Access to find out more.
MINI Cooper Remote start
The remote start for the MINI Cooper system brings to use the pre-existing keys and is activated quite easily. The system then communicates with the control units of the vehicle to ensure that the vehicle is safe to start. The remote start makes it easy for you to start your vehicle without having to physically start the engine. With this feature, you are sure to enjoy the entry in your car to the gentle hum of your engine as it's already started.
This remote start feature is available only for some MINI Cooper models. These include the MINI Cooper F56, F55; 3-door and 5-door MINI Hatch. The system includes a set of remote transmitters that come with a 2-way LED, along with a module for remote start, and a vehicle-specific t-harness that is required for installation.
How to use the remote start with your MINI key fob? Easy. You need to just push the ‘lock’ button two times and then press it for the third time; continuing to hold it down for a couple of seconds until remote start is triggered.
How to activate MINI Cooper Key Fob
The activation procedure will differ depending on your car generation, but Mk I MINIs produced since July 2004 have the most involved activation process:
- Get yourself into the driver’s seat
- Make sure you have both the keys on you and that your vehicle is closed
- On the first turn of the ignition switch turn KL-R
- Make sure you switch it off within the first three seconds
- Now go ahead and remove the key
- Press and hold the unlock button, simultaneously for 30 seconds
- Tap the lock button three times and within 10 seconds
- Release both buttons and you will find your MINI Cooper doors will lock/unlock. This will be a signal for the successful initialization.
- If you have more than one key, repeat steps 3-4 within the next few seconds
- When you switch on the ignition back to KL-R position, then it completes the activation process.
When leaving the car, test out the keys with all its functions including the ones that are included in the MINI Cooper Comfort Access keyless entry system.
MINI Cooper Key Fob battery
If your MINI key fob is not working the chances are that it has run out of battery. Fortunately, it is not very hard to know how to replace one. All you need to do is open the cover and insert a type CR 2032 battery with the positive side facing up. Here’s how it’s done:
- First remove the key blade by pressing the silver button on the side of the fob
- Pull out the keyblade out and insert a screwdriver into the fob
- Pull off the cover and put it away
- Insert the screwdriver into the retainer plate and pop that off too
- Remove the battery and replace it with a new one
- Replace the retainer plate with the tab side first
- Snap the cover back on and replace the key blade into the fob
Your key fob should work now and if not, your fob might have gotten too old or faulty. This means it’s about time you order a new one.
Moreover, you would want to check if the battery isn’t leaking. In case it is, carefully remove the battery and proceed to rub the affected areas with a cotton swab after it has been dipped in white vinegar. You can then clean up the area with a cotton cloth and then replace the battery as we’ve instructed you.
Can you charge a MINI Cooper key fob?
Each MINI Cooper key fob has a rechargeable battery that gets charged while it is inserted into the ignition lock when driving. It is important that you use each remote at least twice a year to ensure that its battery status is maintained
Lost MINI Cooper key fob – what to do?
There are two obvious steps to it :) You deactivate it to make sure it does not fall into the wrong hands and you replace it (for which BimmerTech is your MINI Cooper’s best friend).
MINI Cooper Key fob deactivation
The first thing you need to do when you lose your key fob is to deactivate it. Why? Because you do not want your key fob to be misused or your car getting stolen. Before ordering a new key fob replacement, you need to deactivate the lost one.
With our key fob decoding service you’ll make sure your loss will not fall into the wrong hands.
Replace your MINI Cooper key fob
Have you already deactivated your old fob? Great! Let’s move on to the replacement.
Our MINI Key Fob Replacement comes with a pre-set code that matches your specific vehicle. All you need to do to get it is show us the proof of the ownership of your vehicle and we’ll order a new one from the MINI dealership.
Importantly, our MINI Cooper keys do not come with the internal key blade, hence if you're looking for a spare one rather than a replacement, you’ll have to add the optional internal key blade when placing your order. Without it, you’ll find it hard accessing your MINI next time the fob's battery runs flat.
Note: All the fobs are made specifically to order by MINI (that is unique to your specific vehicle). Due to BMW’s policies, all the MINI Cooper key fobs along with other key fobs cannot be canceled or refunded.
Find out more about MINI Cooper replacement and activation.
With the MINI Cooper key fob, your life as a MINI Cooper owner will become easier. MINI ensures that not only your driving experience is uplifted but the moment you grab the key, you are on a ride to pure bliss. We hope we’ve answered all your queries with this blog. If you feel that we’ve missed out on information regarding the MINI Cooper key fob, please feel free to let us know. We love to know what you think.
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How to Fix the Remote Central Locking on Your BMW Mini 2004-2006
You press the button to lock or unlock your Mini and it does nothing. This can happen all of a sudden, sometimes affecting one key, sometimes both.
Cars This Advice Applies to
All first-generation ("facelift") Minis between 2004 and 2006: This means Mini One, Mini Cooper, Mini Cooper S and Mini One D.
If your car has the three-button key, this will work for you. If your car has the two-button key or the round "UFO" key, then it will not.
How to Fix It
TIP! Make sure you've got ALL the keys for the car. If you program one, it will de-program the others. This works perfectly with new keys, too.
1. Get inside and close all doors on the car.
2. Switch the ignition to the first position; within 5 seconds, turn back and remove key.
3. Within 30 seconds of removing the key, press and hold the lock and unlock buttons at the same time (the "Mini" button in the middle is the lock button, and the button nearest the key blade is the unlock button).
4. While holding the unlock button, press and release the lock (centre Mini logo) button 3 times, within 10 seconds.
5. After the third press release both buttons and the doors should lock and then unlock.
6. If you have another key to program, start from the pressing both buttons at step 3.
7. To finalise, insert key and switch ignition to position one. Both keys should now work perfectly.
If this does not work, try again two or three times, sometimes the timings can be tricky to get right.
If it does not work after multiple attempts, there may be a problem with the receiver, for which you will need to contact your BMW Mini workshop.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
© 2012 Signature Mini Specialists
chris milliken on July 22, 2019:
driver door latch is toast. stuck in lock, both cables are off. only access is from the top. have to get the door open to replace latch. any ideas?
chris on July 22, 2019:
latch on driver side is toast. stuck in lock position, both cables are off, cant open the door to remove and replace latch. I only have access from the top with window down. any ideas to get it unlocked? I can move the unlatch parts with stiff wire but still wont unlatch.
gary on May 24, 2019:
central locking button on my 12 plate on dash opens the doors but not the boot, is this normal
firdos on March 27, 2019:
hi we have mini cooper s 2007 problem is center lock not working with remote but car inside center lock button and manually key center lock working
Gil on November 27, 2018:
Someone know how to do for the key on the right hand pic??
ronald on October 04, 2018:
Hi all.......... I have the spare key for my bmw mini , however when I open the drivers door the passenger door doesn't open after I turn it twice , what could be the issue
Melvyn rhodes on June 11, 2018:
Our remote works passenger and rear door but not drivers, have used metal key for this ,any ideas.?
Dai o on June 04, 2018:
Cheers buddy,just saved me a few quid
mike c on March 10, 2016:
re my previous question, I seem to be able to reactivate either of these keys but cannot get both working correctly
mike c on March 10, 2016:
have just reactivated central locking on one of the keys to my 2004 mini cooper s using this method, however the key that was previously working ok has now been de programmed,any suggestions please
How to Set Up a Mini Cooper
The Mini Cooper has many customisable options to set the car up just the way you like it. They are all accessed via the menu in the tachometer. You can set options like what the response is when you lock or unlock the car with the key fob, how many times the turn signal flashes when you give it a quick push and several other convenience options.
Turn on the ignition of your Mini without starting the engine (press the start/stop button without depressing the clutch or brake).
Press the button on the end of the turn signal stalk to cycle through the tachometer display until Set/Info is displayed. Hold the button until the display changes.
Press the button to scroll through the options until you see a picture of a key with ruler-like markings below it. This is the option that allows you to set all your units of measure and reset the vehicle to factory settings if you need to. Press and hold the button until the display changes.
- The Mini Cooper has many customisable options to set the car up just the way you like it.
- This is the option that allows you to set all your units of measure and reset the vehicle to factory settings if you need to.
Select your units preferences. The gas pump symbol allows you to change the gas consumption measure between l/100km, mpg or km/l. The arrow between two lines allows you to change the distance measure between miles and kilometres. The clock allows you to change between 12 hour and 24 hour mode, and to change the date display preferences. The thermometer symbol allows you to change between F and C. Press and hold to activate a measure, use the quick press to scroll through the options and press and hold until the display changes to confirm. Select Home and press and hold to return to the previous menu.
- Select your units preferences.
- The clock allows you to change between 12 hour and 24 hour mode, and to change the date display preferences.
Press the button again to scroll to the following option. This looks like a key with a check mark next to it. This is where you'll set more options. These include confirmation signals when locking and unlocking the vehicles, response during the unlocking procedure (drivers door only, all doors), automatic locking, pathway lighting, daytime running lights, and triple turn signal activation. Press and hold the button until the display changes to access the menu.
Scroll through the menu until you have a symbol in the display that looks like a closed padlock. This options allows you to change the car's response when locking. Press and hold the button until the display changes and select hazard flashers, horn, hazard flashers and horn or off. Press and hold the button to store your selection.
- Scroll through the menu until you have a symbol in the display that looks like a closed padlock.
- This options allows you to change the car's response when locking.
Scroll to the next setting. The symbol is an open padlock. This allows you to set the response when unlocking. The procedure and options are exactly the same as setting the locking response.
Press the button until a picture of a door is displayed. Push and hold the button until the display changes. Press the button briefly to and select the picture of the car with one or two doors open. The picture with one door opens sets the car to only open the driver door when the unlock button is pressed. The picture with two doors open will open both doors when the unlock button is pressed. Highlight your selection and press and hold the button until the display changes to save the setting.
- Press the button until a picture of a door is displayed.
- Press the button briefly to and select the picture of the car with one or two doors open.
Press the button to scroll to the next option, a picture of a padlock with an A next to it. This selects the settings for automatic locking. Select the clock to if you want the vehicle to lock all the doors after some time if no one has opened a door, the arrow if you want the vehicle to lock when you drive off, the clock and arrow if you want it to do both, or off to prevent the car from locking itself. Highlight your preferred option, then press and hold to confirm.
Press the button so select the P with the beams of light coming from it. This sets the pathway lighting options. Press and hold the button until the display changes and then highlight the amount of time you want the lights to stay on after you get out of the vehicle. Select 0s to turn the feature off. Highlight your selection and then press and hold to confirm.
Press the button until the symbol with a dot in the centre and four beams of light is displayed. This sets the daytime running lights. Press and hold the button to change the options, select on or off and press and hold the button to confirm.
- Press the button so select the P with the beams of light coming from it.
- Press and hold the button to change the options, select on or off and press and hold the button to confirm.
Press the button to scroll until you find the symbol with the two blinking lights. Press and hold the button. This determines how many times the turn signal will blink when you press the turn signal lever as far as its resistance point. Select 1x or 3x to have the signal blink one or three times. Press and hold the button to confirm your selection.
- Press the button to scroll until you find the symbol with the two blinking lights.
- Press and hold the button to confirm your selection.
Scroll through until you see "Home." Press and hold to exit the display. All of your preferences will be stored in the remote control.
Settings door lock mini cooper
Introduction: Repair Mini Cooper Electric Door Lock Actuator / Locking Mechanism
This instructiable details how to repair a Mini cooper door lock actuator. I did this to my 2003 mini cooper s. I was sick of reading about the countless number of people who have been forced to replace this poorly designed component with a new one ($130) because BMW made them "non-serviceable". This unit IS SERVICEABLE - if you are clever enough ;)
I would also like to thank the guys over @ NAM (northamericanmotoring.com).
Step 1: Are You Sure You Have a Broken Unit?
Confirm that in fact you do have a bad door lock actuator. Check  fuses  other door locks functionality  wiring harness  battery in your keyfob.
get your tools ready. I used torx, flat head screw drivers, pin, acetone, multimeter, DC-power supply.
Step 2: Remove Door Panel
Best to disconnect battery first.
Instead of "re-inventing the wheel" - check out this guys video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wC0ciLIp6YY
Note that - the clips holding the panel on are pretty robust. there are three clips on the left side, right side and bottom that all pull srtaight out. The clips on the top also pull directly out from the door - not "up and out/' like they say in the video.
Step 3: Remove Lock Mechanism From Door.
there is al ot of info out on the web about doing this. Below is a quote from: http://new.minimania.com/web/SCatagory//DisplayType/Technical%20Information/DisplayID/2519/ArticleV.cfm
Note that I had to loosen the rear window guide. I also would highly reccomend removing the metal flange that holds the outside door lock handle cable. This will make removing the unit much easier.
Door Lock Repair Instructions, as submitted by 'MPayle' in our forums:
Instructions for replacing the door lock actuator on 2002 to 2006 MINIs.
These instructions are written from memory based on having replaced both the passenger and driver side actuators in a 2002 MINI Cooper-S over 7 years of ownership. Pictures are not available as I no longer own that particular car.
Replacing the door lock actuator is necessary when the lock stops properly responding to lock and unlock commands from the remote or dash mounted toggle switch. The same procedure is followed for either door; however the driver side actuator does take a bit more time to install as it has the key lock linkage to also get back in place. The passenger side takes about 1 hour to accomplish and the driver side takes about 1.5 hours. Leave the window rolled UP while doing all work - you need the room! You can get usually away with leaving the battery connected when changing the passenger side actuator;, however, you must disconnect the battery when changing the driver side actuator. The actuators act in a master-slave relationship with the driver side being the master. Disconnecting the battery will allow them to resynchronize when the battery is reconnected.
Tools necessary: #20 Torx driver #30 Torx driver small flat blade screw driver medium flat blade screw driver #2 Phillips head screw driver socket set (metric) flashlight
First, you must remove the door panel and carefully disconnect the speaker connections. The door panel is held in place by 4 torx screws (either #20 or #30) and a series of clips around the perimeter.
Three of the torx screws are in obvious locations: the recesses in the panel. The fourth is hidden behind the small clear/white reflector slightly below the lock button at the back of the door. Use the small blade screw driver to carefully pry up the reflector to remove it from the door and put it aside (where it won't get lost or damaged, so you can re-install it later). Remove all 4 torx screws - keeping track of which holes each one came out of: 3 are identical length, 1 is longer and has to go back into its original location.
Then use the medium flat blade screw driver to carefully pry up the perimeter of the door panel. I start at one of the lower corners and work along the bottom then up each side. The top is held in by spring clips that remain on the window edge of the door - be very careful getting these to pop free of the door panel. To release them, lift out very slightly on the bottom of the panel and then firmly pull the panel away from the frame. DO NOT PULL TOO HARD OR TOO FAR! You just want to pull it away enough to reach behind and disconnect the speaker wire connections: the lower speaker stays on the door panel and the upper speaker (tweeter) stays on the door frame though its cover stays on the door panel! Once the speaker connections are released, set the door panel aside.
The push rod for the manual lock will now be loose from the door panel. It has the black plastic tip on one end and the other inserts into a clip on the actuator. Reach into the door frame and find where the push rod goes through the grommet in the door frame and follow the push rod to the actuator. Pull the end of the push rod out of the actuator and feed it back through the grommet and set aside.
Next, you need to disconnect the electrical connector for the actuator. The connector is on the bottom inside corner of the actuator. It is held in place with spring clips on the sides of the connector. Simply squeeze the sides together and pull the connector down at the same time. Just let the connector drop to the bottom of the door until you need it for reconnecting.
You will easily be able to see the cable for the interior handle. The exterior handle is also a pull cable. Removing the interior handle assembly from the door frame and releasing the cable from the retaining clips will give more flexibility for getting the old actuator out and the new one in. The handle assembly is held in place by 3 phillips head screws (again, note where each screw comes out for re-installing).
You will also see the rear window guide about 1/3 the way from the back of the door. This is held in place by a bolt in the bottom of the door. Make note of exactly where (inside to outside) the bolt head is located before loosening it - DO NOT remove it - only loosen the bolt to allow in/out adjustment of the guide channel (again, to give more room to work inside the back of the door). Next comes loosening and removing the actuator.
Before loosening the 3 #30 torx screws that hold the actuator to the end of the door, use the flashlight to look inside the door and examine how the two cables are attached. You may need to re-use the clip that holds the exterior handle cable. You will nee to release the end of the exterior handle cable from its retaining clips before trying to remove the actuator. YOU WILL BE DOING THIS BY FEEL! While examining the connection with the flashlight, squeeze the outside handle to see the cable function. You will be able to then observe how to get sufficient slack in the cable to free the end from its retaining clip and then free from the white plastic sleeve guide. Be careful to not break the sleeve guide, it gets re-used. The sleeve guide rotates in its bracket and can fall out as you remove the actuator once the cable is free. The cable end is like a nail head and fits through a slot in the bottom tab on the actuator. You pull down on the cable and tilt the end of the cable to flip it out of the tab.
You will still have the interior handle cable attached to the actuator. Its attaching clip on the actuator is under a hinged cover. You will find it easier to remove this cable after you get the actuator loose and out of the door frame enough to open the cover, thus the freeing of the handle assembly and cable from the retaining clips along the door. Observe where the interior handle's cable is routed as you will need to ensure it gets routed the same way with the new actuator. You will be pulling the cable out around the window channel guide, so you will be sliding the interior handle close to the channel guide. Remove the three torx screws that hold the actuator to the door (should be #30). Then jiggle loose the actuator and work it out of the door far enough to open the cover and release the interior handle's cable. This will test your puzzle solving skills as you are in a tight space, working around the window guide channel with a relatively bulky 'L' shaped actuator. You have to snake and rotate it around the guide channel to get it out. Be careful to avoid putting a sharp bend in the handle cable. Pay some attention to how you get it out as inserting the replacement will be similar.
NOTE: if doing the driver side, there is also the control rod for the key lock. This is a rod with a u-joint style hinge near the key lock and a star head at the actuator end. The star fits into a socket in the top of the actuator and will be fairly clear to see when examining with the flashlight before removing the actuator. The star just slides into the fitting in the actuator. Getting the star back into the new actuator makes the driver side job take a bit longer than the passenger side.
Once you have the old actuator past the window guide channel and to the opening in the door frame, you can then open the retaining cover for the interior handle cable and free the cable from the actuator. Try to keep the cable from snapping back into the door Compare the old actuator with the replacement as there are a couple of small brackets you may need to transfer from the old actuator to the new actuator.
At this point one could use the classic phrase from the Haynes manuals: "assembly is the reverse of disassembly", but that would not be completely fair. Much of the re-assembly is the reverse of the above procedure, but there are steps that should be highlighted again anyway.
After transferring any brackets and/or clips necessary from the old actuator to the new actuator, make sure the interior handle cable is still making the "u-turn" around the guide channel and attach the cable to the actuator and secure the retaining cover. You may want to use a small piece of tape to help hold the white plastic clip for the exterior handle cable to its slide bracket. Manipulate the new actuator back into the door frame and past the guide channel. Pull some of the slack in the interior handle cable back outin order to help align the new actuator. As you manipulate the actuator into its position, you will need to ensure the exterior handle cable is not trapped behind the actuator as it needs to come over the top of the actuator to reach its guide clip and retaining clip.
NOTE: If doing the driver side door, you will also need to position the key lock rod into place for the star end to slide into its place in the actuator.
With the actuator in position, start threading one of the three torx screws that hold it to the door. This will hold it in place enough while you reconnect the exterior handle cable. This will again be mostly by feel. You will need to thread the cable into the guide clip then pull it down enough to tilt the end and slip it into the retaining bracket. Then thread the other two torx screws to hold the actuator to the door. Snug the screws down, but not fully tight - just enough to hold it still in place.
Remount the interior handle and its cable to the door frame. Thread the manual lock push rod back through the grommet and insert the end into its clip in the actuator. You should be ready to manually test the lock to be sure the cables are functioning. Use the manual push rod to lock and unlock the door. With the door unlocked, see if the outside handle cable is operating correctly. Use the push rod to lock the door. Pull the interior handle once to see if it unlocks the door. the second pull should then open the door.
If all this is working, fully secure the actuator to the door by tightening the torx screws to "hand tight" (about 14 lb-ft torque). Now reconnect the electrical plug for the actuator and then reconnect the battery. Fully test the actuator with the toggle switch on the dash and the remote control.
If satisfied that all is working, it is time to re-install the door panel. Do not forget to reconnect your speaker! Snap the door panel into place starting with the top, down each side and then along the bottom. Then replace the torx screws in the same locations they came out of. Put the reflector back over the fourth screw. You will also need to reprogram your radio presets and set the time on the clock.
Step 4: Repair Broken Actuator
Everyone out there say to "replace" the actuator for the sole reason that they are "not serviceable". This is BuII SH1T. These actuators do not work by magic - they fail for a reason. Most often it is a motor problem.
What we are going to have to do here is take apart the broken actuator. Start by removing the plastic cover that is clipped on. it will come off real easy.
Step 5: Dig In
with the cover off we need to start being every careful that we do not loose any springs etc. this thing is like a mechanical clock inside and can be very intimidating if you put anything back incorrectly.
Step 6: Take Note of How the Levers Are Positioned
I would highly suggest snapping a few photos - so that you can remember how the thing was put together. it does get very complicated very quickly.
Note where the metal levers are placed. Where they interlock and where they slide in.
Step 7: Remove White Plastic Lever
First remove this plastic lever
Step 8: Remove Gear
remove this black gear. Note there is a spring underneath. Make sure you note the orientation of the spring for the re-instillation later
i took a photo of the spring. The "s" part wraps around the plastic base and the "pin" part goes up into the gear. - I hope this is clear.
Step 9: Remove Torx Screws
I believe there are 4 torx screws. - Pull them out now
Step 10: Remove Compression PIN
there is a pin that must be removed. It is a straight pin in the center with a clip that must be removed off of it. I suggest digging a screw driver into the plastic under this pin and prying it off. I broke mine - but decided to still put it back on during re-assembly.
Step 11: Remove the Base Part of the L
the actuator can be separated into two parts the base part (white plastic ) can be separated from the metal part. it is held in by clips - observe where they are - apply a bit of pressure and fore apart.
Step 12: Clip Time
The whole unit is now being held together by clips and the plastic is very brittle. I suggest grabbing a plastic soda bottle and cutting a whole bunch of little shims. I take the little shims and slide them in between the clips that makes popping the unit open much easier. One of the things i was afraid of was there being a whole bunch of springs inside the unit that would pop out and be impossible to put back into place. Fortunately - this is not the case. - So fear not and open up the casing.
you can see the green soda bottle i cut up in the photos.
Step 13: Lets See Whats Wrong
Ok - It is time to diagnose what is wrong in here. The motor on the right is to open the lock. The motor on the left is to lock the lock. Visually inspect the two. On mine you can clearly see the motor on the right has a lot of "black stuff" around it.... I bet that is the trouble maker....
I removed both motors and hooked them up to a 12v power supply. Sure enough the motor on the left was bad... Not working at all.
Step 14: Take the Motor Apart
Although these motors are generally considered non-servicable - so is this entire actuator! So lets just open it up. There are two tabs on the side of the motor. Pry them apart and slide the back of the plastic housing off the motor. I dod this to reveal that my motor is filthy with black powder (most likely graphite worn off from the brushes).
you can see the little tabs that i bent out. They look like little nipples on the side of the motor.
Step 15: Clean Motor Contacts
It is important now to clean the contact s of the motor to make sure they are not shorting out during motor operation. I suggest reading the wiki page on how a motor works to understand why this is important. :)
I used a pin, some paper towels and nail polish remover. I dont suggest the nail polish remover - as it did not work that well - but it was all i had on hand . The contacts should be shinny copper color. (not shown in photo)
Step 16: Make New Plastic Washer/Bushing
When taking my motor apart I noticed that it had a plastic washer on the motor rod that was half burnt off. I am not sure if this was an insulating washer or a bushing - but i decided to make a new one to replace the old one. Here again I used a soda bottle. Cut a circle and drilled a hole to replace the old one
Step 17: Put Motor Back Together
When re-assembling the motor it is VERY important not to damage the brushes. The brushed (which are really little graphite cubes) are spring loaded to ride against the motor contacts that you just cleaned.
When i re-assembled my motor I created a tool to hold the brushes apart - by bending an old paperclip into a v shape. I then inserted the paper clip through the outside of the motor housing to hold the brushes. I suggest you do something similar because if you toast the brushes you have toasted the motor.
Step 18: Put Everything Back Together
Once the motor is re-assembled - test it with a 12v power source. I was able to get my motor to run down to about 7 volts - so they are a bit flexible. Note that depending on how well you cleaned the contacts on the motor you might have to give the motor a quick spin with your fingers to jump start it to moving the first few times. If you have to do this more then 5-6 times of on and off - then your contacts are not clean enough and you need to take the motor back apart. I had to do this once.
Well - thats about it. Put everything back together. Hopefully everything lines up. Test it on your car BEFORE you reinstall.
Hope you found this useful. IF you decide not to rebuild your actuator - throw it up on ebay - i am sure some one will appreciate being able to buy it ;)
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I understand what OP is saying.
Let's say settings are set to "lock after starting to drive". Ok....so now we're in D and all the doors are locked.
OP gets to the store and parks. Once in P, it only unlocks the drivers door. The passengers in the back pull the handle and expect to get out. They can't. They have to pull the handle again. Picking someone up? You have to hit the unlock button so they can get in from the outside. It's super annoying. The F25 I had before wasn't like this.
So now, I have the feature of "lock after starting to drive" turned OFF...because I got tired of passengers tugging on the handle.
I'll give you another example where this sucks. My 10 month old is in the back seat. Say I'm dropping him off to my parents. I park, leave it running, go around to his door to get him out, and his door is locked. I have to walk back to the drivers door and hit the unlock button.
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