How Do I Know if My Water Pump Is Bad on My Kenmore Washer?
Start the washer and wait for the washer tub to fill with water. If you do not hear water or hear a motor whirring, the washer motor may be dead.
Open the washer lid in mid-cycle. Note whether or not the inner tub is still spinning around. The inner tub is the inside surface of the washing compartment with many holes for water draining. If the tub is not spinning but the motor is running, it is possible the pump is dead. Check the pump pulley by removing the pump from the washer and trying to rotate it by hand. If the pulley doesn't turn freely and is frozen or stiff, replace it. Also, if the agitator is moving but the tub isn't, this is a sign the pump is dying. For front-loading washers, do not attempt to open the door mid-cycle. Look through the glass door. If there is enough water to come up against the door, the pump is malfunctioning.
Wait for the washer to finish its cycle. Open the lid. If water is still in the tub, the pump is likely dying or dead.
How to Change the Water Pump on a Kenmore Front-Loading Washing Machine
By Chris Deziel Updated February 04, 2015
If your Kenmore washing machine won't drain, and you've eliminated a clog in the drain hose as a possible cause, you either need to repair the drain pump or replace it. The drain pump is located in the lower front corner of most Kenmore front-loading machines, and the most difficult part of the job may be getting to it. If the machine doesn't have an access panel, as some do, you'll have to take the entire front panel off. Replace the pump if the impellers are damaged or if the pump housing is leaking.
Unplug the washing machine, and disconnect the drain hose from the drain. Turn off the water valves and unscrew the water hoses from the inlet ports on the washing machine, using adjustable pliers.
Pull the washing machine out from the wall. If it has an access panel under the loading door, you just need to pull it out a few inches so you can tip it back. If you don't see an access panel, pull it out far enough for you to get behind it and work comfortably.
Unscrew the screws to release the front panel, using a Phillips screwdriver. If there is no front panel, follow the instructions in your owner's manual for removing the front cover. This involves removing the top, disconnecting and removing the control panel, pulling out the soap drawer and prying off the the door gasket with a flat-head screwdriver. When you're ready to remove the front panel, unscrew the screws holding it and pull it away from the machine.
Lift the front of the machine a foot or so off the ground. Support it on blocks of wood high enough to allow you to get a screwdriver under the drain pump, which is in the front of the machine.
Release the clamps holding the water inlet and outlet hoses on the existing drain pump, using pliers, and pull off the hoses. Pull the electrical connection apart. Locate the two screws under the machine holding the pump to the housing, and unscrew them. Remove the screws and put them in a safe place. The pump is now disconnected -- you can lift it out of the machine.
Set the new pump in place, and reconnect the drain hoses. It's usually easier to do this before you screw the pump down, because there isn't much clearance behind the pump. Screw the pump to the housing using the two screws you removed from the old one, and then connect the pump's electrical wires.
Reassemble the washing machine housing by reversing the procedure you used to take it apart. Remove the blocks. Push the machine back into position, and reconnect the water lines, drain and electricity.
- If your washing machine isn't draining, you may not have to replace the drain pump. Look inside it first -- there may be a sock or some other item stuck inside.
- If you have a helper or a dolly, you may find it easier to work if you lay the machine flat on its back.
- In some models, the drain pump isn't connected by screws. If you don't see any screws under the machine, all you have to do is lift the rubber tab under the pump with a screwdriver to disengage the pump from the housing. When you get the new pump in position, it will snap into place.
- Disconnect the power before beginning to disassemble the housing. Failure to do so could result in a serious electric shock.
Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Besides having an abiding interest in popular science, Deziel has been active in the building and home design trades since 1975. As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies.
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Introduction: Replace a Drain Pump in a Kenmore / Whirlpool Washer
We have a Kenmore HE2 font load washer that was giving us an error F21. This code means it is taking too long to drain. Most of the time that can be fixed by emptying the filter basket located before the pump. But if the basket is clear and the drain line is not kinked or restricted, it may indicate a bad pump. I have run into this on several occasions and this Instructable will lead you through the process of replacing the pump.
Step 1: Items Needed
You will need a few item to change the pump
1. A new pump. I just typed in the part number on Amazon and got a hit. You can either get the pump or the entire pump / filter assembly. I decided to get the pump this time because it was about half the cost of the complete assembly.
2. A nut driver to remove the screws on the front of the washer.
3. A bucket to catch the water you drain out of the machine.
4. A couple of old towels to soak up any water that dribbles out.
5. Some quality electrical tape to seal connections.
6. Some wire ties to secure the wiring.
Step 2: Unplug the Machine
Just a reminder to make sure power is off. I do not like to mess with water and electricity at the same time!
Step 3: Remove Lower Front Panel
Use the nut driver to remove the screws at the bottom of the front panel. Pull out the bottom of the panel and drop it down. Our washer is mounted on a pedestal, so this makes it handy to get to.
Step 4: Drain Washer
Put a bucket or container under the drain cap. Unscrew the cap and pull out the filter basket. Ours is usually full of change and Bobby pins. Hence all the rust stains from the Bobby pins.
Step 5: Remove Old Pump and Motor
1. Stuff some old towels under the Pump.
2. Grasp the pump and turn it counterclockwise about 1/8 of a turn. It is a breach lock style mechanism that holds the assembly in place
3. You should now be able to pull the motor / pump assembly out of the housing
4. This motor had a plastic cover over the wiring connector. I snapped it open and unpluged the connector. The connector may have a clip that needs to be released before it can be pulled out.
5. The motor is now out of the machine.
Step 6: Water in Motor Housing
Just FYI. Every motor I had go bad had water in the housing. These pictures show the water inside the motor housing. Look closely and you can see the fluid inside. If water is in the motor, it is only a matter of time before the motor will quit working.
Step 7: Connector Difference
These two pictures show the old and new motor. Our machine is 10 years or so old, so the replacement motor terminals will not match the connector. An adapter solution is sent with the replacement motor.
Step 8: Wiring the Motor
The adapter provided is simply two wires about 6" long with a male spade connector on one end and a female spade connector on the other end. Insert the female end over the existing spade connector on the motor.
1. Insert the male end into the connector that used to connect to the old motor.
2. Do the same thing for the other wire. You should now have 2 wires on the motor and two wires in the connector.
3. Use a high quality electrical tape to tape around the wires and connector so they cannot vibrate out.
Step 9: Reinstall the Motor / Pump
Reinstalling the motor / pump assembly is simply reversing the process of taking it out. Line up the slots in the housing. The motor will be turned approximately at the 10:00 position. Rotate it clockwise and lock it in place. It may take a little pressure to compress the o-rings to get it locked in.
The pictures show the wiring being secured in place. The adapter wires add about 6" to the length of the original wiring harness. I do not like wires flopping around while the machine is running. They may rub and wear through the insulation. I placed a wire tie around the pump to secure the wire. Make sure it does not rub anywhere
Replace the filter basket and cap and the job is almost done.
Step 10: Test
Plug the machine back in and do a test cycle with the cover off. Check for leaks and anything that looks abnormal. Use common sense and keep body parts away from moving machinery.
The pump was a little shy of $45. Doing it myself saved a bit of a bill for a service call.
It takes 30 to 60 minutes to do this, and anyone with a little mechanical aptitude can do it.
Good luck and thanks for checking this out!
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You’ve just finished washing a week’s worth of laundry, so now you switch your Kenmore washer to drain. You leave the washer to do its thing, but after a few minutes, you get back to the washer only to discover that the dirty laundry water is still in the tub. What do you do if your washer won’t drain properly?
A Kenmore washer that won’t drain properly likely has a clogged pump. Try checking the drain to see if there’s any foreign object obstructing the valve or opening. If not, the drain pump might be damaged and need replacing. Those with newer washer models can also try performing a master reset.
Are you still having trouble getting the dirty laundry water out of the washer? In this article, I’ll explain what causes Kenmore washers to get stuck on the drain cycle, how to drain the water quickly, and what long-term solutions you can do to fix your washer.
How To Force a Kenmore Washer To Drain
The problem with having your Kenmore washer on the drain cycle is you can’t just ignore the issue. You’ll have to drain the dirty water first before repairing the appliance. The wastewater in your washer consists of all the sweat, dirt, bacteria, and viruses from your laundry. So, don’t even consider letting it sit in your washer for even a few days.
There are multiple ways to drain your Kenmore washer manually, but the simplest way is to remove the drain hose. Locate the drain hose (you’ll find it behind the washer), pinch the pin locking it to the appliance, then slowly pull off the hose. Afterward, the water will pour onto the floor.
For those who have newer digital Kenmore washer models, you can try doing a master reset. First, unplug the washer from the outlet, let the machine rest for one minute, then plug again. Afterward, carefully open and close the washer door six times within 12 seconds. If you do these steps properly, you should trigger a master reset in the newer models.
Again, bear in mind that the master reset trick won’t work for everyone. If you still have your instructions manual, you can refer to it to see if they have any given directions on resetting your Kenmore washer.
Kenmore Washer Won’t Drain / Not Completely Draining
Manually Drain the Washer
As I mentioned before, the first thing you need to do is get rid of the wastewater. You can either manually remove the drain hose or perform a master reset to force the appliance to expel the dirty water.
However, these are just quick hacks to drain water manually in case of emergencies. I strongly discourage using these tricks as an alternative to proper washer repairs and parts replacements.
Check the Drain Pipe and Coin Trap
Once the water’s out of the tub, it’ll be a lot easier to check the washer’s different crevices and openings for blockages. Make sure you inspect the following:
- Drain Hose: Small pieces of clothing such as socks, panties, briefs, and boxers often get stuck in the drain hose. Check if there’s anything lodged inside.
- Valve Openings: Check all the valve openings in your washer to see if there are any blockages. Don’t just scan for foreign objects. See if there are buildups of soap, grime, or scum that might be preventing water from flowing properly as well.
- Coin Trap: Most modern Kenmore washers have coin traps. As their names suggest, small bins catch small objects that might get lodged in the drainpipe (e.g., pens and loose change).
Clean the Water Level Valve
If none of the tricks above work, you might have to inspect your water level system. Dismantle the flap covering the control panel and locate the water level valve. You’ll see a small plastic tube attached to it. If you see mold, scum, or grime buildup, you can try clearing the tube with some vinegar and baking soda. However, consider replacing the valve if it’s already rusting.
Kenmore Washer Stuck on Drain Cycle
If none of the quick fixes mentioned above resolved the issue and your washer is still stuck on the drain cycle, you have to consider a part replacement. Fortunately, you won’t have to take down the entire washer just to pinpoint the specific issue. I’ve narrowed the most probable causes that are likely preventing your washer from draining properly.
Damaged Water Pump Belt
Dismantle the back panel flap of your washer to reveal the water pump belt. Assess it by hand. Check if the belt shows severe signs of physical deterioration, cracking, and stretching.
If you decide it’s time to get a parts replacement, start by unscrewing the mounting bolt holding the pump belt up—but don’t fully remove the bolts yet. Afterward, tilt the machine down a bit and remove the hoses connected to the water pump. Make sure there’s a bucket underneath to catch all the excess water. After draining the remaining water, fully remove the bolts and dismantle the water pump.
Replace the belt with a new, durable one like 131686100 Washer Drive Belt by AppliaFit. It’s a durable, high-quality, and easy-to-install aftermarket replacement part compatible with most Kenmore washers.
Defective Drain Pump
Is your drain pump failing to drain even though there are no buildups or blockages lodged inside the valve? Then the pump itself might need replacing.
The best way to determine whether your drain pump is still good is to check the pressure with your hands. Stick your finger in the drain outlet and place your free hand on the pump flywheel. Slowly twist the flywheel. You’ll be able to feel a shift in the drain pump pressure if one or two of the impellers are no longer working.
To prevent your drain pump from failing again, make sure you use a high-quality replacement part. Ditch the cheap, low-grade OEM replicas. A great replacement option would be the 4681EA2001T Washer Drain Pump Motor by Ubrand. It’s a manufacturer-tested aftermarket replacement part guaranteed to withstand years’ worth of daily use.
Kenmore Washer Keeps Draining (Drain Pump Keeps Running)
Are you having trouble filling your Kenmore washer with water? Here are some of the possible issues that might cause your washer to get stuck on the drain cycle:
Improperly Positioned Washer Drain
The first thing you need to check is the height of your washer drain. Ideally, the drain hose should be standing 30 inches (76.2 centimeters) from the base level. Most of the time, the drain hose slowly gets pushed too deep into the valve due to daily use. A simple fix would be to pull the hose up a few inches.
However, if the hose is at the proper height, you might want to check for signs of damages. Don’t hesitate to get a part replacement if you notice any visible signs of deterioration such as stretching, cracking, or ruptures.
Clogged or Faulty Drain Pipe
Drain pipes go both ways, so if the valve is clogged or malfunctioning, the valve can either:
- Stay closed and prevent wastewater from exiting the tub
- Stay open, so the tub never fills no matter how much water you pour in
Go through the drain pipe to check for any foreign object such as socks or undergarments lodged into the valve. If there’s none, check for impeller pressure. Twist the flywheel with one hand while your other is in the drain pump to check for imbalance pressure.
Malfunctioning Control Board
If neither the washer drain hose nor drain pipe shows signs of damages, then the issue might be with the user and control board. A malfunctioning board may prevent the washer from switching out of the drain cycle.
To check for issues, try pressing all the buttons on the control board. Take note of what happens with every press you make. If the washer does not respond accordingly with some buttons, there’s a good chance that the board is malfunctioning and may need replacing.
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