Ge refrigerator circuit board replacement

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How to Troubleshoot and Replace the Main Control Board #WR55X10956 in GE Refrigerator


Key Points

  • Step-by-step instructions on how to troubleshoot and replace a GE Refrigerator main control board
  • Instructions on installing Part # WR55X10956 and WR55X11064

Table of Contents

  • Applicable Models
  • Location
  • Maintenance – Visual Inspection Tips
  • Input / Output Specs

Applicable Models

GE ModelPart #NameReplaces


(Check here for the latest availability and price)
Main Control Board Assembly (computer logic board)1550509, AH2371144, EA2371144, PS2371144, WR55X10657, WR55X10658, WR55X10662, WR55X10697, WR55X10745, WR55X10774, WR55X10929, WR55X10943, WR55X10958
PFCF1NFCWR55X11064 **Main Control BoardWR55X10697
PFCF1NFXWR55X11064 **Main Control BoardSee PFCF1NBW
PFCF1NFYAWR55X11064 **Main Control BoardSee PFCF1NBW
PFCF1NFZWR55X11064 **Main Control BoardSee PFCF1NBW
Main Control BoardSee PFCF1NBW

** You may see a sticker on the backside of your refrigerator that states “ATTENTION: USE ONLY MAIN BOARD SPECIFIC VARIABLE SPEED COMPRESSOR. REPLACEMENT PART NUMBER WR55Xxxxx”. Please note that all part numbers listed in the above table are the latest information obtained directly from GE Appliance Parts.


Main control board is only accessible via rear panel of your refrigerator.

Model PFCF1NFW main control board is located on the lower right side. Your specific location may vary.

Please note that the black duct tape you see on the top side of a cover panel was applied by me to prevent any liquid from getting inside the main control area.

Main Control Board

Show below is the a WR55X10956 board. Depending on your refrigerator model, it might look slightly different.

  • allthumbsdiy-ge-profile-pfcf1nfw-main-control-board-wr55x10956-fl
  • ge-profile-pfcf1nfw-main-control-board-wr55x10956-no-cables-fl

Input / Output Specifications

The main control board is divided into 2 sections: Low voltage DC side (right half) and 120VAC side (left half that contains two large capacitors). The sides are on entirely two different circuits (the reason for having two separate green ground wires).

Low Voltage Side

J1 (Sensor Input)1FF Thermistor
2Ambient Thermistor
3FZ Thermistor
4FZ Evap. Thermistor
5Thermistor Common +5V
6Not Used
7Not Used
8Model Selector
9Model Selector
J2 (Fan Speed Control)1Evaporator Fan (RPM, Tachometer)
2Model Selector
3Fan Common
4Evaporator Fan
5Condenser Fan
6Mullion Bat Heater
7N/A (Custom Cool Fan on certain models)
8Fan +12V
5N/A (not used in PFCF1NFW model)
6N/A (not used in PFCF1NFW model;3 Way valve -Dual Evap)
7N/A (not used in PFCF1NFW model;3 Way valve – Dual Evap)
8N/A (not used in PFCF1NFW model;3 Way valve – Dual Evap)
9N/A (not used in PFCF1NFW model;3 Way valve – Dual Evap)
10N/A (not used in PFCF1NFW model;3 Way valve – Dual Evap)
J4 (Communications)1Communication 2 Way Digital
2Communication +12V
3Communication Common
4Not used
5Not used
J5 (Not Used in PFCF1NFW)1N/A (Custom Cool models only; QC Damper 1+)
2N/A (Custom Cool models only; QC Damper 1-)
3N/A (Custom Cool models only; QC Damper 2+)
4N/A (Custom Cool models only; QC Damper 2-)
5+5 VDC
6TC Thermistor (Quick Chill model only)
J13 (Earth)1Ground
J15 (Inverter)1Inverter Output (4-6 VDC)
2Inverter Common
EF-1 (Evaporator Fan)N/AResistors (will burn out if the evaporator fan is shorted out)

High Voltage side

J71Not used
2Not used
3Dispenser Water Valve
4Not used
5N/A (models w/ Quick Chill Heater)
6FF Light switch
7FZ Light switch
8Not used
J81Not used (supply power to compressor on certain models; PFCF1NFW uses inverter)
J91Defrost Heater
J111L1 or Line 1 power supply
J121Mullion heater
J181Ice maker water valve heater

You should perform periodic visual inspection of your board (top and bottom sides). A healthy board should look something like this:

What your looking for during your visual inspection is to detect any signs of burnt components.

xxxx Some burnt components may only be visible from the underside so you will have to unplug your refrigerator and disconnect all wires and remove the board for closer inspection.

Main Board Tests

  • Measuring thermistor resistance at J1 jumper
  • Measuring thermistor voltage at J1 jumper

Required Tools / Materials

  • 3/8″ socket
  • Needles nose pliers
  • Multi-meter
  • Ziploc bags
  • Ice
  • Roll of Duct tape
  • 2″ zip ties
  • 4 thermistors
  • 1 defrost heater temperature sensor

J1 Jumper

By the end of this section, we want to confirm that J1 on the main board and all thermistors are in working order

  1. Verify that thermistor resistance is +/- 5% of 16.3 K ohms or 16,300 Ohms at simulated 32 degrees
  2. Verify the main board J1/Pin5 is sending +5 VDC to thermistors (warning – if you are not careful, you may damage your board!)
  3. Verify that each thermistor is returning 2.8 to 3.5 VDC (depending on the temperature) (warning – if you are not careful, you may damage your board!)

Evaporator Thermistor and Defrost Temperature Sensor

These two parts are tucked away in a very tight space in the freezer so it is almost impossible to test them in place.

My recommendation it to test and verify that all other thermistors are in working order and that the main control board is sending a proper voltage.

Only then, skip the testing and REPLACE these two parts. At around $15 a piece, they are not too expensive and you will save time and lots of frustration.

Preparation Work

  • Step # A1 – Fill 3 small zip-loc bags with ice and some water and set them aside for ff, fz and ambient thermistors (Pin 4 – evaporator thermistor will be replaced so it will not be tested)
  • Step # A2 – Pull out the refrigerator and unplug it
  • Step # A3 – Remove the bottom freezer door
  • Step # A4 – For the fridge and/or freezer thermistors, remove the plastic shark gill covers by inserting a small flat head screwdriver from the bottom and popping it off; thermistor wire can be pulled out about 2 inches
  • Step # A5 – For the ambient thermistor, remove the toe kick plate (below the freezer door) by removing 2 Phillips screws; you will need to cut off the zip tie
  • Step # A6 – Dunk each thermistor into a ziploc bag and tape it securely to the refrigerator so that the bag will not spill; wait 5 min
  • Step # A7 – Uncover the main control board access panel using a 3/8″ socket
  • Step # A8 – Touch bare metal surface (away from the main control board area) to discharge any static electricity

Measuring Thermistor – Resistance

Taking a resistance measurement with wires attached to the main board will produce inaccurate results.

  • Step # B1 – Set the multi-meter to “ohm”
  • Step # B2 – Detach J1 wire harness block from the main control board
  • Step # B3 – Insert the black lead into Pin 1 (FF thermistor) on the wire harness block (not the main control board pin!); we are not testing polarity so it does not matter which lead color goes where;
  • Step # B4 – Insert the red lead into Pin 5 (common) on the wire harness block (again, not the main control board pin!)
  • Step # B5 – Your resistance reading should be around 16.3 K-ohm or 16,300 ohm
  • Step # B6 – Repeat steps #B3 and B4 for Pins 2 and 3;all thermistors are identical so the return resistance value should be very close to each other;
  • Step # B7 – If the return resistance value is way off, you can either do additional testing with the refrigerator plugged in (i.e. live voltage) or just replace the faulty thermistor


Although this test section involves working with the low voltage side, you can damage the board, hurt or even kill yourself if you accidentally touch a wrong part! If you are uncertain of your capabilities, please consult a appliance technician.

Measuring Thermistor – Voltage

Taking resistance measurements with wires attached to the main board will produce inaccurate results.

  • Step # C1 – Set the multi-meter to “VDC”
  • Step # C2 – Leave the J1 wire harness block attached to the main control board
  • Step # C3 – Insert the black lead into Pin 1 (FF thermistor) from the top side on the wire harness block
  • Step # C4 – Insert the red lead into Pin5 from the top side on the wire harness block
  • Step # C5 – Your return voltage reading should between 2.8 to 3.5 VDC
  • Step # C6 – Repeat steps #C3-4 for Pins 2-4; all thermistors are identical so the return resistance value should be very close to each other
  • Step # C7 – If the return voltage value is way off, replace the faulty thermistor

Related Links

Filed Under: Appliances, RefrigeratorTagged With: main control board


Common Motherboard Problems GE refrigerators

This page outlines common motherboard problems on GE electronic refrigerators. In 2000, GE started making electronic refrigerators, which have one motherboard that controls all functions of the refrigerator. The motherboard (also known as main board) controls everything so, theoretically everything that fails on a GE electronic refrigerator can be caused by the motherboard. The trick is to determine if the problem is the board or something else. With the expense of these boards there is no need to replace one unnecessarily. Below are some symptoms that are commonly caused by a faulty motherboard on these types of refrigerators.

Refrigerator not cooling both fans running compressor off

If the compressor is off and both fans are running then the problem is the motherboard, compressor start-relay or compressor. More often than not, it is the motherboard. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the start relay and shake it. If it rattles it is bad and if not you can be reasonably sure it is not bad. If the start relay isn’t bad, remove the motherboard and look on the backside of the board. When the board fails in this way it is very common to see a burn or bad solder joint behind the compressor relay. If this is the case you know for sure the board is bad. You can repair the solder joint if you are handy with a solder gun; however, this will not repair the problem every time. Sometimes the relay itself is bad or it is taken too much heat to last very long. Although I have repaired bad solder joints a time or two, the best route is to replace the board. If the board doesn’t have a brunt solder joint go ahead and replace the board.

Side Note
The solder joint failure used to be one of the most common motherboard problems although I rarely see this now it is worth looking into.

Also see Electronic Board Repair

Refrigerator not cooling evaporator fan not running

This is one of the most common motherboard problems and sometimes it requires you to replace the board and the fan to repair the problem.

Note that the safest route is to replace the board and the fan because of the chance that the fan can blow out your new board.

What can happen is moisture will sometimes invade the evaporator fan and/or the evaporator thermistor and cause the board to short-out. Often when this happens the resistor shown in the picture below will burn out. If this resistor is burnt you must replace the board and the fan. Note that if the resistor isn’t burnt, the fan could still cause this problem. This page shows a motherboard test that can be performed to diagnose this problem. GE Refrigerator Fan diagnostics

Motherboard burnt resistor
Refrigerator Not Cooling And Making A Constant Clicking Noise

This is a motherboard problem that we see from time to time. This will be very easy to identify, all you have to do is make sure the clicking noise is coming from the main board and you know the board is bad.

Intermitting cooling-ice melting/ refreezing- wide temperature variation

These types of problems are common motherboard problems. The motherboard monitors thermistors to determine cooling and defrost actions. Faulty thermistors can also cause these types of problems and this page will help with thermistor diagnostics.
How To Check GE Refrigerator Thermistors

If all thermistors check within range replace the main board. A faulty evaporator fan can cause this so again, the safest route is to replace both the fan and the board. A bad resistor or capacitor (on the board) causing the voltage to drop across the low voltage side of the board can also cause this. If this is the case you will have to replace the board.

Motherboards can be purchased from this trusted appliance parts company.

Defrost Cycle Too Long/ Ice Melts Then Refreezes

Lately we have been seeing faulty main boards cause the defrost cycle to stay on too long. When this happens it causes the same problem I talk about above. This will cause the ice in the ice melt then refreeze. When this happens the ice will clump up and jam the dispenser.

When you attempt to use the ice and/or water dispenser the refrigerator lights dim, and the fans stop.

This is one of the most common motherboard problems on GE refrigerators, which can also lead to intermitting cooling-ice melting/ refreezing- wide temperature variation type of problems (talked about above). A bad resistor or capacitor causing the voltage to drop across the low voltage side of the board is what causes this problem. If this is the case replace the board.

Refrigerator Defrost Problem

Motherboards can be purchased from this trusted appliance parts company.

Like I said before, the main board controls everything the refrigerator does and this includes the defrost cycle. It controls when a defrost cycle occurs and how long it last. So motherboard problems can cause a defrost problem. However, I actually haven’t seen this but a few times and I work on GE electronic refrigerators all the time. I am not saying it isn’t the problem, just that you need to eliminate the other three possibilities first. Here is a link to a page dedicated to refrigerator defrost problems. On this page it shows a motherboard test that can be performed to diagnose this type of problem. GE Refrigerator Defrost Problem

Fan Motor Noisy/Fan Motor Rapidly Changing Speeds

Often a bad motherboard will cause the evaporator fan to make a whining noise. Most of the time this noise is intermitting but will happen often. The repair is to replace the board.

It is normal for the fan to change speeds but the main board is designed to change fan motor speed gradually. Normally it will take one minute for the fan to change from slow to high speed and vice versa. If the fan is rapidly changing speeds the main board is bad and needs replacing.

Motherboards can be purchased from this trusted appliance parts company.

Return From Common Motherboard problems is a free service but it cost to keep it up and running. Donate to let this website help you next time!

Appliance parts online, right part, best price and fast shipping.
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GE is a typical smart refrigerator available with different innovative functions like you can enjoy the unexpected of hot single-serve brewing at your fridge.

In this refrigerator, the dispenser automatically fills any container with filter water. Adjustable temperature and you can easily store the tall bottles in it. GE refrigerator has a perfect door design and a convenient rotating bin.

There is a distinct problem that happens in GE refrigerators like it does not make the ice or stops providing temperature. These are the major problems when you have to need to reset the refrigerator. Now we discuss the refrigerator control panel not working for which reasons.

Procedure Of Ge refrigerator control board reset

  • If you want to reset the control board, there is a simple process to do.
  • Turn off the electricity supplier board and unplug the refrigerator.
  • The circuit breaker is off for 30 seconds the control board.
  • Now you can replace the filter of the refrigerator.
  • On this step you can assure the water is turned on the refrigerator at the shut-off valve.

GE profile refrigerator reset display

Sometimes the refrigerator is working but the display panel in not work properly. When the display panel is not working and not show the temperature when the refrigerator is cool or not. If the display is not working not show any kind of number. If you want to reset the digital display follow up these steps.

  • Proper power supply
  • The problem in the refrigerator door
  • Temperature controller
  • Change with New

Proper power supply

This is the first step you follow to check the control panel and also the display profile of the refrigerator. If there is power is not properly supply, find out the cord and plug it into the display outlet. Check the circuit and replace or repair the fuse.

The problem in the refrigerator door

Make sure nothing inside the fridge is pushing the door open. If the door seal looks fine, but the door doesn’t seal shut and drifts open, the gasket may have become de-magnetized. You will either need to get the seal re-magnetized or replace it.

If the door won’t fully close something may be obstructing the hinge. In this way, you can solve the problem of the display reset in the refrigerator. 

Temperature controller

The exact temperature measure for the GE refrigerator is perfect for it. Not down 60degree F and limit exceed from 110 degrees. Temperature controls can be found in the back of the fresh food compartment, near the top of the fresh food compartment, or on the dispenser panel.

Change with New

When you have check all the required steps and the display screen is not working properly. You can finally change the breaker circuit to replace it with a new one and wait for 30 seconds.

Now after the required time you can restart the refrigerator if it does not work well. You should call the GE company and complain about its display panel is not reset by using any method. Repair it or change it with new one.

How to replace Ge refrigerator Electronic Control Board?

How To: GE Control Board WR55X10942P

General Electric WR55X10942 Refrigerator Main Control Board is common in GE, RCA, Monogram, and Hotpoint brands. Installation instructions are included.




Refrigerator board replacement circuit ge

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How To: GE Main Control Board WR49X10152

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