100% genuine counter guarantee CLEAR MIXER COVER w/TAN Trim fits KitchenAid Bowl-Lift Stand Mixer 5 - 6Qt. fantastic quality
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I’m so excited to share with you my free KitchenAid Mixer Cover sewing pattern. I’ve been wanting to make this project for a long time, and it turned out so fabulous!
This blog post has been converted to an optional PDF that’s optimized for printing. Find it here. The blog post below contains everything you will need and it is totally free to read, print, and sew! Just hit CTRL +P on your computer to print. The PDF download for $2 is totally optional.
My mixer cover has beautifully rounded sides, 3 pockets, and can be sewn with home decor weight fabric, pre-quilted fabric, or fabric that you quilt yourself with quilt batting, craft felt, or foam stabilizer in between two layers of material.
The two main fabrics I used are from the Flower Sugar Maison Oxford collection from Lecien. Please search for it on Google if you are interested. There is very little left!
I’m going to share with you details for making a flat front pocket and side pocket plus one pleated side pocket. The pleated pocket is nice for holding your beaters, and it’s very cute! See photo above.
The finished dimensions of this DIY Mixer Cover are approximately 14’’ tall x 14 1/2’’ wide x 10 1/2’’ deep. It fits my Kitchenaid Artisan 5 QT mixer easily. The pattern template and cutting dimensions below include an XL size which is 2’’ taller to fit the Professional series mixers.
To my great delight, I discovered that the regular sized cover perfectly fits standard sized sewing machines too! It is just the right size for my Janome Pink Sorbet sewing machine, and Janome CoverPro 900CPX, and a snug fit for my Babylock Evolution Serger.
Click here to see a canvas fabric version of this same cover and how it fits on my sewing machines.
At the end of this post I have included instructions for altering this pattern to fit extra large sewing and embroidery machines.
So let’s get sewing!
DIY KitchenAid Mixer Cover Sewing Pattern
To make the regular (large) size cover, you will need:
- 1 yard of double sided pre-quilted fabric or home decor weight fabric
- OR 1 yard each of two cotton fabrics and a layer of batting, foam stabilizer, or craft felt so you can quilt them yourself (I used ByAnnie Soft and Stable)
- 1/4 yd quilting cotton fabric for binding
- 1 1/4 yards of double sided pre-quilted fabric or home decor weight fabric
- OR 1 1/4 yards each of two cotton fabrics and a layer of batting, foam stabilizer, or craft felt so you can quilt them yourself
- 1/4 yd quilting cotton fabric for binding
NOTE: I used directional fabric, hence the pattern is upside down on the back side of the cover (not shown). This does not bother me. If it will bother you, please do not pick directional fabric.
You will also need:
- a fabric marking pen or tailor’s chalk
- fabric basting spray (such as SpraynBaste) – optional
Optional instructions for making your own quilted fabric:
All dimensions are height x width. Cut in the order suggested.
For the regular sized cover, cut:
- 2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 35’’ x 16’’ (for the main body piece)
- 2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 16 1/2’’ x 24’’ (for the side pieces)
- 2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 15’’ x 24’’ (for the pockets)
- Alternative: cut 2 fabric pieces and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 8’’ x 40’’ (for the pockets)
For the XL sized cover, cut:
- 2 fabric pieces exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 39’’ x 16’’ (for the main body piece)
- 2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 18 1/2’’ x 24’’ (for the side pieces)
- 2 fabric pieces (exterior and lining) and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 17’’ x 24’’ (for the pockets)
- Alternative: cut 2 fabric pieces and one batting (or foam stabilizer) piece 9’’ x 40’’ (for the pockets)
1. Lay your exterior fabric wrong side down against a batting or foam stabilizer piece of the same size. Adhere with spray-baste (such as SpraynBond) or machine baste around the edges 1/8’’ from the edge.
I love to machine baste when using foam stabilizer. See my easy video tutorial here.
2. Lay your lining fabric with the wrong side against the opposite side of the batting or foam stabilizer. Adhere with spray-baste (such as SpraynBond) or machine baste around the edges 1/8’’ from the edge.
Repeat for the three sets of fabric and stabilizer listed above.
3. Quilt your 3 pieces as desired. I used a fabric marking pen to draw diagonal lines 2’’ apart, and then I used my walking foot to quilt over the marked lines.
After quilting, your three pieces will be trimmed and cut to the specific dimensions listed below.
Cutting instructions (after quilting, if desired)
From your pre-quilted fabric or home decor weight fabric, cut:
- 1 main body piece 35’’ x 15’’ (39’’ x 15’’ for XL size)
- 2 side pieces from the pattern template
- 1 main pocket piece 7’’ x 15’’ (8’’ x 15’’ for XL size)
- 1 flat side pocket piece 7’’ x 11’’ (8’’ x 11’’ for XL size)
- 1 pleated pocket piece 7’’ x 12’’ (8’’ x 12’’ for XL size)
From your binding fabric, cut:
- 1 main pocket binding piece 2 1/2’’ x 15’’
- 2 side pocket binding pieces 2 1/2’’ x 11’’
- 1 bottom binding piece 2 1/2’’ x 60’’ (sew strips together to make 60’’)
Tip: If you have used quilted fabric, baste around all of the pieces 1/8’’ from the edge to ‘seal’ the edges.
Make The Pockets
1. Fold the three pocket binding strips lengthwise (wrong side facing) and press flat.
2. Pin or clip the 15’’ long binding strip against the lining side (top edge) of the main pocket piece. The raw edges of the binding and top edge should be aligned.
Sew with a 1/4’’ seam allowance. Use an even feed (walking foot) if desired.
3. Turn the binding to the front (exterior side) of the pocket and clip in place. Stitch the binding down close to the fold.
4. Repeat steps 2-3 with one piece of 2 1/2’’ x 11’’ pocket binding and the 7’’ x 11’’ (or 8’’ x 11’’ for XL) pocket piece to make a flat side pocket.
5. To make the pleated side pocket, make three marks on the top edge and the bottom edge of the 7’’ x 12’’ (or 8’’ x 12’’ for XL) pocket piece.
The first mark should be in the center, and the two other marks are on either side, 1/2’’ away.
More specifically, the marks are at 5 1/2’’, 6’’, and 6 1/2’’ along the top and bottom edge.
6. Make tiny pleats by folding both outer marks to touch the center mark.
Pin the tiny pleats in place. When the pleats are properly pinned, the top and bottom edge should both measure 11’’ across.
7. Stitch across the pleats 1/8’’ from the edge to secure them at the top and the bottom.
Press the pleats flat, if desired.
8. Bind the top edge of the pleated pocket in the same way as the other two pockets.
9. Pin or clip the side pockets to the bottom half of the side pieces. Baste the pockets in place along the raw edges, 1/8’’ from the edge.
10. Pin or clip the main pocket to one end of the main body piece as seen above. Baste in place 1/8’’ from the raw edges.
Sew the Mixer Pieces Together
1. Use the fabric marking pen to mark the center of the main body piece along both long edges.
Mark the center (top) of the side pieces also.
2. Use small scissors to make 1/4’’ clips that are 1/2’’ apart for about 8’’ on either side of the center marks on the main body piece.
3. Clip one side piece to a long edge of the main body piece as follows:
- First match the center mark on the main body piece to the center mark on the side piece and clip together with right sides facing.
- Then clip the bottom corners of the main body piece to the bottom corners of the side piece.
- Working slowly, clip the rest of the edges together. More clips will be needed around the curves. The 1/4’’ clips made into the main body piece will help it ease around the side piece.
4. Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
Tip: Sew with the side piece against the bed of your sewing machine. This way you can help the straight edges to ease around the curved side piece (because of the scissor clips you made).
5. Clip the remaining side piece to the main body piece in the same way. Stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
Finish the raw edges with a zig-zag stitch or serger if desired.
Bind the Bottom Edge
1. Fold the 60’’ long binding strip in half lengthwise (wrong sides facing) and press flat.
2. Stitch the binding to the inside edge of the cover with the raw edges aligned, using a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
Start and stop on the back side of the cover, leaving about 4-5’’ of binding unsewn at the start, and then stopping about 6’’ away from the place where you started.
3. Bring the ends of the binding to meet in the center and fold them back. Finger press the folded edges and clip or pin the binding so that the folds butt up against each other.
4. Trim away the extra binding to leave just 1/4’’ past the fold on either side.
5. Place the binding ends right sides together and stitch with a 1/4’’ seam allowance.
6. Finger press the seam open. Refold the binding as before, and finish sewing the binding to the bottom edge of the mixer cover.
7. Fold the binding around to the front of the cover and stitch it down close to the fold.
Yay! I can’t wait to see your beautiful mixer cover. Please post a picture to Instagram and tag me @sewcanshe or #sewcanshe so I can take a look!
How to Alter This Pattern to Fit XL Sewing Machines:
As you saw at the top of this post, the regular sized cover fits my Janome sewing machine that is 12’’ tall, 16’’ wide, and 7’’ deep.
If you would like a cover to fit a sewing machine wider than 16’’ (such as an extra-large sewing or embroidery machine), you should make the main body piece and the main pocket piece the same width as your sewing machine.
For example, if your sewing machine is 18’’ wide, then make your main body piece 34’’ x 18’’ instead of 34’’ x 15’’.
The main pocket piece will also need to be the same width as the main body piece. For example, for a 18’’ wide main body piece, cut the main pocket 7’’ x 18’’ instead of 7’’ x 15’’.
Also consider using the XL pattern if your sewing machine is taller than 14’’.
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Disclosure: some of my posts contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of those links I may receive a small commission, so thank you for supporting SewCanShe when you shop! All of the opinions are my own and I only suggest products that I actually use. 🙂Sours: https://sewcanshe.com/diy-mixer-cover-sewing-machine-cover-too-free-sewing-pattern/
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How to Make an Easy Sew Kitchen Aid Cover
I would honestly say that my Kitchen Aid Mixer is a workhorse in my kitchen. I’ve had for over 20 years now and it’s still going strong. That said, my Kitchen Aid isn’t used daily and so I thought I would make an easy sew Kitchen Aid Cover. After being inspired by sewing the cover for my Cricut Maker and my Instant Pot, I knew exactly how I wanted to make it.
Since it isn’t used daily and since it sits on my kitchen counter (it’s too heavy to move in and out of a cupboard, plus I don’t have that much cupboard space to accommodate this), it is susceptible to splashes and splatters, so a cover is a good idea.
This easy sew Kitchen Aid cover consists of a front and back panel with a body part that goes up and over the Kitchen Aid. I made this to cover my Kitchen Aid Mixer which is the Ultra Power model. You may remember the cute, removable vinyl decal I made for it. Check it out on my blog post about projects using removable vinyl.
The easiest would have been to make the body one piece but I like the two-tone look of my Cricut Maker cover and so I wanted to do something similar.
This easy sew Kitchen Aid cover is reversible, so you can change up the look of your appliances.
What Kind of Fabric Should I Use for This Easy Sew Kitchen Aid Cover?
Considering that this is going to be in the kitchen and susceptible to possible spills and splash, I’d definitely recommend something that can easily be thrown into the wash every now and then.
My favourite fabric to use for the kitchen is laminated cotton fabric. You may have seen me use this fabric when making reusable snack bags as well as the cover for my Instant Pot. This laminated cotton fabric by Impwear is a cotton fabric that is coated with an eco-friendly polyurethane. This fabric can easily be wiped off and is machine washable as well. This is the perfect fabric for the kitchen.
If you can’t access some laminated cotton, you will find a large selection of quilting cotton available. Cotton flannels are also great – I love that they are soft. For mine, I used flannel for the lining. The main thing is that you want something machine washable.
Be careful of fabrics that have an obvious direction – a clear top and bottom. Fabrics with that type of print will not work for this project since the body part goes up and over. I tend to also avoid patterns with lines as it needs to be perfectly lined up in order to look right. I prefer overall patterns. Choose colours and prints that go with your kitchen.
Supplies Needed to Make an Easy Sew Kitchen Aid Cover
- Main Fabric – 1/2 yard/.5 metre
- Lining Fabric – 1/2 yard/.5 metre
- Sewing Machine
- Thread and other sewing notions like scissors or a rotary cutter
- Optional: Cricut Maker
As always, I prepare my fabrics by pre-washing them – you don’t want any surprises with shrinkage!
Cut Your Fabrics
Most of the pieces are rectangles and therefore easy to cut. I like to cut my fabric with a quilting ruler and a rotary cutter. Good sewing scissors will also work.
Using the Main Fabric, cut the following 5 pieces:
- 14.5 x 35.5 (body)
- 11 x 16 (front panel)
- 11 x 16 (back panel)
For the front and back panels (the 11 x 16 pieces) you can download the template from the Heart of Mary blog – you’ll need to sign up for a free personal subscription to get the pdf from an online sharing site called Box.
Alternatively, I put the front and back panel template in Cricut’s Design Space. If you have a Cricut Maker you can have your machine cut it out. You can access that free file in my Free Resource Library. The password to my Free Resource Library is located at the bottom of my emails when you subscribe. Don’t forget to use a pink mat (you’ll need the long 12 x 24 mat since the pieces are longer than 11.5 inches) and choose a cut setting that matches your fabric.
I put my fabric face down and for the laminated cotton, I used the “Bonded Cotton Fabric – Medium Weight” cut setting.
For the Lining Fabric, cut the following pieces:
- 14.5 x 35.5 (body)
- 11 x 16 (front panel)
- 11 x 16 (back panel)
Similarly, cut the front and back panels either using the template or with your Cricut Maker.
Sew the Lining First
Please note that I like to use a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
With right sides together, pin the front panel to the long part of the body. The curve of the front panel will be sewn to the long part of the body piece. Repeat for the back panel.
Test the fit on your Kitchen Aid. As not all models are the same size, here is an opportunity to tweak it as necessary.
Sew the Front Part Next
Similar to the lining, sew the front fabric pieces together. I don’t like to pin laminated cotton and so I use bulldog clips to hold the pieces together.
Final Assembly of the Easy Sew Kitchen Aid Cover
Turn the main fabric part inside out. Insert the lining so that the right sides are together.
Sew both the main fabric and the lining together along the bottom edge with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Leave a 4-inch opening.
Turn the cover right side out using the 4-inch opening. Fold in the seam allowance for that 4-inch opening. Sew close to the bottom edge all the way around.
There you have it – an easy sew Kitchen Aid Cover. I also like that it’s reversible so you could always change it up.
Want to remember how to make this easy sew Kitchen Aid Cover? Be sure to save this to your favourite Pinterest board.
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Mixer cover for kitchenaid stand
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