Don't suffer in the heat with crank out windows! These simple, rental friendly solutions will allow you to have a casement window air conditioner this summer!
Our upstairs rooms have casement windows (also known as crank out windows), making an in-window air conditioner impossible to install. We avoided going upstairs altogether on the hottest days! But I've found three simple ways to set up a casement window air conditioner, to keep our upstairs cool all summer long!
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Central air conditioning is pretty rare in Seattle, since our summers are usually 75 degrees with low humidity (to make up for those dreary, rainy winters!) But the last few summers have been creeping into uncomfortable territory, and when you add in wildfire smoke that forces our windows closed, it becomes unbearable!
This was our view of Seattle during the worst of the wildfire smoke in 2018!
Our upstairs is just the playroom and the guest room, so most of the time we just avoid going up there when it gets too hot. But with family coming to visit this summer, I started searching for a way to install a vertical window air conditioner to make our guests more comfortable.
What is a Casement Window?
A casement window is a window that operates on a hinge, instead of sliding on a sash. My window cranks outward, which is nice for catching the breeze but doesn't help when the air is still and hot.
Supposedly, casement windows are more energy efficient and are more soundproof than sliding windows. But I'm not a fan of the design, and plan to switch them out if we ever remodel the upstairs.
Portable Air Conditioners
Portable air conditioners have dropped in price significantly since they first came on the market. Now they're comparable to window units, and way more versatile. I nabbed one of the few left in the store just before our heat wave started!
Instead of mounting the entire unit in the window, a portable air conditioner rests on the floor and uses a vent pointed outside. It's easy to remove the vent when the weather cools down, so you can open the window instead. Unfortunately, the vent brackets won't work with a casement window! 🙁
I needed a way to block out the hot air (and bugs) outside while still allowing for venting for the air conditioner. After some research, here are a few good options for how to put a portable air conditioner in a crank window.
Plexiglass Casement Window Air Conditioner
This was my first idea, and it turns out I'm not the only one who thought of this option! I was debating screwing the Plexiglass directly to the window frame, but this video shows how one homeowner replaced his window screen with a custom made Plexiglass insert instead.
Cut a piece of Plexiglass the same size as your window, with a hole for the portable air conditioner exhaust port. Here are my tips for cutting acrylic or Plexiglass sheets if you decide to go this route.
This is a great long-term solution, and one that I will probably do at some point once I figure out all the parts. But with the heat wave imminent, I needed something quick and easy!
The downsides to this method are that big acrylic sheets are expensive, and it's difficult to cut a perfect hole for the exhaust vent without cracking. I also had a hard time finding a screen frame that would fit in our windows, and I didn't want to drill permanent holes in our window frame either.
Foam or Plywood Window Insert
This method uses the window vent insert that comes with the portable air conditioner, coupled with a piece of rigid foam or plywood to block the rest of the window. This would also work if you want to install an air conditioner in a sliding window as well. You can see how one homeowner did it in the video below.
This is a fairly cheap and easy solution, but also has its own drawbacks. We only have one window in this room, so blocking off all the sunlight isn't really an option. Plus, a strong gust of wind would knock a foam insert right out! Plywood would require multiple screws to be drilled directly into the window frame.
Fabric Window Seal for Portable Air Conditioners
I stumbled upon this fabric window seal kit on Amazon, and it was cheap enough that I decided to give it a try. This is definitely the most renter friendly option, and a temporary solution that we'll use while I puzzle out the Plexiglass version above.
This casement window air conditioner installation kit comes with a triangular piece of fabric with a zipper down the middle and Velcro along the edges. You also get a roll of adhesive Velcro and large zip ties.
How to Install the FAbric Window Seal
The instructions weren't exactly clear, so I thought I would do a quick tutorial on how I installed the fabric window seal. I apologize in advance for the horrible photos. Taking pictures of a window on a sunny day is hard!
Our window frame was filthy, so I removed the screen and gave the entire thing a good cleaning. This will help the adhesive Velcro stick better.
Apply the Velcro to the window (the part that moves) and the window frame (the part that holds the window in place when closed).
Find the widest point of the fabric, and attach the narrow side to the moving window frame where it opens. Make sure the zippers will be on the inside where you can actually use them!
Work your way around the frame, folding the fabric at the corners to make a 90 degree turn. I had a little extra fabric at the ends, but I just tucked them outside.
Apply the other side of the fabric the same way to the non-moving part of the window.
Then just crank out the window, open the zipper and stick out the vent. I tried to wedge mine between the window and the outside trim so it wouldn't move.
Then close the zipper around the vent, and thread the zip tie through the pull. This keeps the zipper from opening and letting in those pesky bugs!
It's certainly not the most attractive option, but it works! When the weather cools down, I can remove the fabric and put the screen back in about 15 seconds. 🙂 The casement window can still open and close normally, so I can leave the Velcro in place until we need to apply the fabric seal again.
Now that we have a casement window air conditioner solution in place, we can go upstairs on those hot summer days, and our guests will be so much more comfortable!
Want more quick and easy solutions to your home improvement problems? Check these out!
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Portable air conditioners are highly recommended when you need to cool small to medium-sized areas and a great option for recreational vehicles as well. While they can quickly keep you cool in the middle of summer, it’s all for naught without proper ventilation. There are a variety of ways to ventilate a space, but a portable AC window kit is the best temporary solution.
5 Best Portable Air Conditioner Window Kits
The selection of accessories for portable air conditioners is relatively slim as these self-contained systems are designed for ease of use and generally come with everything you need. That includes window kits more often than not, although some are made from subpar materials or won’t work with the windows in your home. Whether you need a kit for a new AC unit or a replacement for an old kit, here are five of the best portable AC window kits.
How to Find the Best Window Kit for Portable Air Conditioners
All of our guides tell you how to find the best product from a particular niche, but some require very little thought. That’s the case with portable window AC kits, as they are simple devices designed to work with a large range of systems. That said, there are still a few things to keep in mind if you want to find the perfect fit.
Portable Air Conditioner Window Kits Explained
Portable air conditioners are a great way to provide supplemental cooling in a variety of spaces, but they aren’t without their faults. They produce heat, and if you don’t ventilate these systems, you are fighting an uphill battle as the room will never cool off.
Most portable window AC kits come with a few simple parts. They will either have seal plates made of plastic that slide together or have a screen-like enclosure. Both types have slots where the exhaust hose goes, which requires an adapter. We found that most manufacturers include one in their kits, although there are a few exceptions.
While many people purchase portable window AC kits for a room in their home, they are useful in other locations, including recreational vehicles, workshops, and garages. The only real requirement is a window… or a sliding door.
Types of Windows
As mentioned, the only thing you need to be aware of when purchasing a portable window AC kit is the type of window where it will be installed. While there are over a dozen styles of windows, these kits are only designed to work with windows that slide or crank open.
- Sliding Windows – Sliding glass windows are the most popular style found in homes across America today. They can be single or double-hung windows that open horizontally or vertically. For this type of window, you’ll want a standard window AC kit, which consists of 2-3 pieces. Ensure the sealing plates extend long enough to cover your window with these kits.
- Casement Windows – Casement windows have been around for ages and have some distinct characteristics that help set them apart. These windows are typically cranked open, and while they provide an unobstructed view, they are hard to seal with a kit. The best solution for casement windows are mesh vent kits with zippers, and you’ll need to measure the perimeter of your window to ensure a proper fit
- Sliding Glass Doors – If you prefer to use a sliding glass door to ventilate a portable air conditioning system, there are two options to choose from. Both are variants of systems designed for casement or sliding windows, and some even allow you to use the door with the kit in place. Just like with windows, you’ll want to compare the kit’s measurements to the door in your home.
Portable Window Kit Installation
How you need to install a window kit for a portable air conditioner all depends on the type of window (or door) in your home and the kind of kit you purchase. While we can’t cover all the possible angles or issues you may encounter, we have put together some quick installation tips along with a few helpful videos.
The first thing you need to do is make sure the window kit comes with everything you need. We’ve seen some models that lack hose connectors or adhesive tape – two things almost every kit requires. It’s also a good idea to test the window out beforehand, especially if it’s one that’s rarely used or you are venting a portable AC unit while doing renovations.
If you have casement style windows in your home, the video below shows what to expect from installing a mesh window AC kit with zippers. While this is for the HOOMEE window AC kit, the process largely remains the same from other manufacturers.
Vent kits for sliding windows are straightforward and incredibly easy to install as long as your measurements are correct. You still want to follow the manufacturer’s directions, but they are simple enough for anyone to install. Vent kits for sliding doors can be trickier if you go with a screen-based system but easy if you use a rigid kit like this one from Sylvane.
Finding the best portable window AC kit is easier than finding a portable air conditioner as long as you follow our tips and keep your window or door measurements in mind. While we just highlight a few of the more highly-rated models, you can often alter these kits to work with different styles of windows or even other appliances like dryers.
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We’ve been testing the best portable air conditioners for five years, and we’ve found out all about the versatility and drawbacks of the vent hoses. These AC units are like self-contained heat pumps: They collect heat from a room and send it somewhere else through an exhaust vent. But portable ACs don’t need to vent out a window, so long as you can find another way to send the heat outside. Below we’ve outlined four other ways to vent a portable air conditioner.
General tips for venting portable air conditioners
The two most common problems with portable air conditioner vents are kinked hoses and leaking window seals.
If you find that your AC hose is getting hot, make sure you’re providing the shortest, straightest path for air to travel. See the photo above for an example of a hose with too many bends in it. Even if you have to extend the hose longer to make it straighter, bends trap more heat than length does.
You should also make sure you use the foam tape included with your air conditioner on the edges of the bracket to get a tight seal, and check around the vent for drafts. If you can’t get the window to seal completely with its own pressure on the foam, you can also add removable caulking or window sealing tape. Check out our guide to insulating windows for more ways to keep the heat from coming in.
Does it need to go outside?
A portable air conditioner uses its vent hose to remove heat, so venting it outside makes the most sense in almost every case. If the heat from the exhaust fan can come back through the intake of the air conditioner, you’re wasting money.
For most cases where you can’t vent outside, a fan will be a much more efficient way to spread heat around inside a building and keep people comfortable. See our review of the best tower fans here.
However, if you have a part of a building that gets exceptionally hot and you can’t vent directly outside, a portable air conditioner could also soak up the heat from that area and move it to a different area inside the building.
You can vent the heat through a building’s cold air return ducts directly to a central cooling system, but only so long as there’s enough capacity in that system to soak it up. Generally, if your central system can’t deal with the extra heat in a room just by redirecting the amount of air coming out of the vents, most HVAC professionals caution that you will only make the situation worse by adding a portable to the mix.
The most common reason to use a portable air conditioner without an outdoor vent is when cooling computer server racks — in this case, efficiently lowering the temperature of the room is not as important as blowing cold air directly on the hottest computer components.
If you need to run a portable air conditioner without any exhaust vent tube, set it to run in “dry” or “dehumidifier” mode and connect a garden hose to the top drain port so you can collect condensed water in a bucket or floor drain. In normal cooling modes, portable air conditioners evaporate the collected water and send it outside, but just circulating the humidity over and over is a waste of electricity.
Portable air conditioner venting options
Extension kits for patio doors
A patio door works just like a sliding window, but none of the portable air conditioners we’ve tested comes with enough bracket pieces to fill a 78-inch patio door opening.
You’ve got a few choices for extending the window kit that comes with your unit:
- Use cardboard, wallboard, plywood or acrylic sheets to make your own custom filler piece
- Buy a complete patio door kit like this one
- Buy additional kits to get extra extension pieces — note that for patio doors you’ll have to buy more than one extra kit to get the height you need, and they’re expensive
The DIY extension is the option that will look and work the best, if you’ve got the materials and tools to cut straight edges. You may feel that you can’t make something that looks good enough to sit in your patio door all summer, but remember that the plastic parts included in the factory kit are pretty ugly. Waterproof materials are important if you think you’ll forget to remove the bracket when it rains.
Buying more factory window kits means everything will slide together with what you have, but these kits are hard to find and expensive. Be sure you’re getting enough pieces before you sink more than $30 into extra kits.
Aftermarket patio door kits might be the best solution for some people, but finding one that’s an exact fit for the hose you’ve got might be impossible. Fortunately, sealing an air duct with tape is a simple adjustment.
Whatever you use, you can secure the bracket in the door frame with double-sided tape (or hook-and-loop tape if you’ll remove it to lock up at night) so it doesn’t fall down every time you need to open the door.
You can use a dowel, stick, or store-bought security bar to keep your patio door closed, though it’s not as secure as a locked door.
Venting through a swinging door
The cases where you’d benefit from venting a portable air conditioner through a door aren’t common, but there are a few.
If you have an exterior door, but no windows, sealing up the door with plastic sheets might make more sense than drilling a hole in your wall. A garage door would be a similar case, and to a certain extent a bathroom with an exhaust fan.
If you’re only running the air conditioner to deal with intense heat from something like a server rack in an interior room with no windows, venting out a door could make sense for short periods of time. Any time you’re venting into an interior space, you should monitor the temperature in the space you’re venting the heat to, making sure you don’t overheat anything.
Sealing a door isn’t difficult with plastic sheeting and tape, but there aren’t any elegant off-the-shelf solutions for making that seal easy to remove and re-use multiple times per day. If you’ve got a metal door and frame, magnets taped to the plastic sheet work fairly well.
Venting through a wall
If you’ve got the ability to install a dryer vent with a saw and drill, then you can use the same steps to vent your portable air conditioner through a wall. Just note that most portable air conditioners use 6-inch vent hoses, and dryer vent fittings are usually 4-inch.
Like with a window kit, the most important thing about this install is to provide a clear path for the air, and the seal should be tight. Luckily, running straight through the wall means you can remove most of the bend from the exhaust hose, which will help with efficiency.
If you’re setting up dedicated vents for a dual-hose air conditioner, you don’t have to get intake air from right next to your exhaust duct, or even from the same wall. Just remember that the advantage to having the second intake hose is not using up your cool room air for the heat-removing exhaust flow. If you use dryer vent parts, make sure you remove the one-way flap and use some kind of screen or mesh to prevent things from crawling in.
Venting through casement windows
If you have a swing-open or crank-open window instead of a sliding window, the kit included with a portable air conditioner won’t seal the top and bottom of that opening.
Like a swinging door, your options are either to cut plastic, wood or cardboard sheets to fill those gaps, or buy an aftermarket vinyl seal kit like this one.
The advantage to buying a kit for this purpose is that it will save you time, and they include all the hook-and-loop tape you need to make it easy to remove and re-install. The plastic bracket will hold up the weight of the dual hoses of our favorite portable air conditioner much better, though.
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Daniel Jackson, Writer
Daniel is a Canadian farm boy who grew up to be a nerd with a literature degree and too many hobbies to count. He emigrated from Canada to California in 2013, and now writes for Your Best Digs full-time. Daniel remains unapologetic about Canadian spelling, serial commas, and the destruction of expensive travel mugs.
- Last Updated:
- Jun 30th, 2010 10:17 am
- Jan 18, 2007
- 31 posts
- 2 upvotes
May 8th, 2010 12:55 pm
Portable Air Conditioner with awning window (pic)
- Jun 27, 2010
- 1 posts
- Vancouver, BC
Jun 28th, 2010 7:04 pm
I went to Home Depot and got a big plastiboard (the corrugated plastic boards you use for signs). I cut it to the size of my awning window.
I then cut a hole in the plastiboard near the "bottom" (the bottom as it will be when installed) and screwed the vent connector to the plastiboard.
I then duct taped the plastiboard to my awning window casement, attached the hose to the vent flange, and voila!
Problems to be solved: Your A/C will generate a lot of hot air which will cause the plastiboard the sag, the duct tape to loosen and break the seal which means hot air leaking in.
One work around I found was to use long, thin wooden stiffeners on the sides. It's not pretty, but it works.
- Deal Addict
- Oct 26, 2008
- 2474 posts
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Jun 29th, 2010 11:30 am
- Deal Addict
- Mar 13, 2003
- 3042 posts
- 565 upvotes
Jun 29th, 2010 11:38 am
- Sr. Member
- Dec 5, 2007
- 543 posts
- 1 upvote
Jun 30th, 2010 9:06 am
X2Si98 wrote: ↑5 to 6 mm plexiglass cut to spec from a specialty shop is the way to go. Shouldn't cost more than $30 according to the size of your window. If you don't have a jigsaw you may as well get them to cut out the notch for the exhaust too. You would also need weather stripping to line all four edges of your plexiglass. Try to find weather stripping thick enough to bring the plexiglass closer to where the narrow notch is on the frame of the window. To hold the glass in place all you need to do is slip some cardboard or folded business cards in the notch on all four sides.
Use plexiglass cut to just larger than the size of the window.
- Deal Addict
- Jan 5, 2003
- 4444 posts
- 3952 upvotes
Jun 30th, 2010 10:17 am
In your case, I would suggest this non-peg pegboard for the bottom if you want a cheaper solution (I think a sheet big enough for you is between $5-$10), and plastiboard for the sides (it's easy to cut to fit and can bend if you get the angle a bit off).
Window awning portable kit ac
Often the actual pane unit for awning and casement windows can be removed (especially in newer and higher end windows). If this is the case, you can install a standard window air conditioner.
You would use an "L" shaped bar, called angle "iron" or angle stock (actually aluminum is probably more convenient), placed at the top of the unit instead of the upper sash to hold the unit in the frame.
The flat inside face of the angle iron would overlap and be screwed into the frame at the edges. The horizontal edge of the angle would be trimmed to fit inside the frame.
The air conditioner can be centered in the gap and the AC units side filler panels can be used to cover the gap. In the alternative, filler panels (clear plexi or any other thin weatherproof material) can be cut to fill the rectangular gaps on either side of the unit in place of the AC unit's fillers, which usually do not seal too well. In the alternative, the unit can be centered and one panel used to fill the gap. Be sure to seal around the AC edges and around the panels in either case.
Because most awning windows are not too tall, you may need a low profile AC unit such as this one
answered Oct 4 '12 at 0:45
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Venting your portable air conditioner is the most important thing you need to do for it to function properly.
Most people choose to vent their portable AC out of a window, which is one of the best options. But there are also other methods to vent your portable AC if there is no window.
In this article, we’ll take a look at a few different methods of venting your portable air conditioner. We’ll also go over the reasons why you need to vent your portable air conditioner.
Why you need to vent a portable air conditioner
If you have a portable air conditioner, you might wonder why you need to vent it in the first place. In fact, venting your portable air conditioner is necessary for it to work at all.
Why is that?
First, you need to understand how air conditioners work.
Air conditioners work by removing heat from the air and putting that heat in another place. When an air conditioner cools your room, it transfers the heat from inside your room to outside your room.
If your portable air conditioner is not vented to another space, then the heat will go right back into your room. The result is that your AC won’t cool your space. In fact, it can make your room even hotter than it was before.
Besides removing heat from your room, venting your AC also removes moisture from your room. Air conditioners dehumidify the air when cooling. Some of this moisture is vented outside your room.
For these reasons, it is critical that you vent your portable air conditioner properly if you want to achieve maximum cooling.
How to vent a portable air conditioner through a window
If you have a window in your home, then venting your portable air conditioner through it is one of the simplest options.
Most people choose to vent their portable air conditioner through a window. In fact, most portable air conditioners come with a vent kit that can be set up for this purpose.
Sliding windows offer the simplest setup. Casement windows can bit a bit more complicated but are still a great option.
Venting a portable air conditioner through a sliding window
Venting through a sliding window is the simplest solution for your portable air conditioner. The main reason is that you can slide the window partially up, and then set up the exhaust hose in the open area.
Another great reason to vent your portable air conditioner through a sliding window is the ease of installation. In most cases, you just need to slide the window up, install the vent kit, and then slide the window back down. This will hold the vent kit in place between the window and the window frame.
In many cases, venting your portable AC through a sliding window does not require any special tools or drilling. A lot of people install window vent kits for the hot months and then remove them after summer.
Venting a portable air conditioner through a casement window
Venting your portable air conditioner through a casement window is a little more of a challenge than a sliding window. This is because casement windows open like doors, so they swing on their vertical axis.
To vent a portable air conditioner through a casement window, you’ll need to remove the entire window from the frame. Then, replace the window with a layer of wood or plastic.
After you replace the casement window with a solid piece of material, venting is similar to the method of the sliding window. You’ll need to attach the window vent kit to the empty space on the bottom of the window.
It takes a little more work but by using this method you can vent your portable air conditioner through a casement window.
If you don’t want to go through the trouble of removing your window and installing a piece of wood, then there are other options. You can use a vent kit that is made for venting through a casement window.
How to vent a portable air conditioner without a window
Sometimes, venting your portable air conditioner through a window is not an option. Particularly if you need to cool your basement or if the room is on the interior of your home.
In this case, you’ll have to vent your air conditioner elsewhere. We’ll go over a few different methods below.
Venting a portable air conditioner through a door
If the room that you are cooling has a door to another space, then this is a solid option for venting.
The first thing that you’ll need to ensure is that the space on the other side of the door will be okay with the increased temperatures.
This is not a problem if you’re venting the AC directly to the outside. But it can pose problems if you vent your portable AC to another room in your home.
When you vent a portable AC to another room in your home, it will get hotter from the vented heat. This is okay if you are venting the AC outside. But if you’re venting it into another room inside your house, make sure that nothing in that room can get damaged by the heat.
If you absolutely need to vent your portable AC into another room in your home, make sure that the room receiving the heat has a way to dissipate it.
If the room on the receiving end of the vent has a window, consider opening the window or using an exhaust fan to remove the hot air from the space.
You’ll also need to minimize air transfer between the conditioned and unconditioned spaces.
Using a universal door/window seal will prevent unwanted heat transfer back into the conditioned room. The seal covers up the big gap left by an opened door when you vent your portable AC through the door.
Venting a portable air conditioner through a drop-ceiling
Venting your portable air conditioner through a ceiling tile or access panel is a solid option if a window isn’t available.
To use this method, you’ll need to cut a hole in the panel to put the hose through. You can also use a vent kit if you cut the panel down to allow enough space.
If you exhaust your portable air conditioner into the ceiling or attic, tread carefully. You will need to watch the temperature and humidity levels up in that space. Too much hot air in your attic can heat up the rest of your house.
The expelled moisture through the vent hose can also cause problems if you don’t completely vent it out of your home.
Some people that use this method will also install an attic exhaust fan. Using an attic exhaust fan will help remove the warm moist air completely from their home.
Connecting a portable air conditioner to a dryer vent
Connecting your portable air conditioner exhaust hose to a dryer vent is not the best option. This is because most dryer vents are smaller in diameter than an AC exhaust hose.
Connecting a large AC exhaust hose to a dryer vent will make the AC work harder to remove heat from your room.
This can be compounded by the presence of a flap on the dryer vent. Portable air conditioner exhaust is not powerful enough to blow open the flap on the dryer vent. So if you decide to hook up to a dryer vent, be sure that it has a screen and not a flap.
For these reasons, this method will usually work just fine. But there are better, more efficient venting options out there.
Venting a portable air conditioner through a wall
Venting your portable air conditioner through a wall is more of a last-ditch effort when there are no other options.
To vent your portable air conditioner through a wall, you essentially cut a hole in the wall and attach a venting kit to it.
This is undesirable for many reasons. First, you’ll need to make a hole in your wall. Another reason is that you may damage the wall when venting warm, moist air through it. Water damage can occur from the moisture of the hot, humid vent air.
How to use a portable air conditioner vent kit
Using a vent kit for your portable air conditioner is a good permanent solution for setting up a portable AC inside your home.
Depending on the make of the vent kit and what kind of surface you’ll be venting out of, the installation instructions may differ.
To use a portable air conditioner vent kit, you’ll want to consult its installation instructions. In the example below, we’ll go over the general steps you need to follow to vent your portable air conditioner through a sliding window:
- Measure your window and window vent kit. You’ll want to make sure that you open your window to the proper height for the exhaust hose to fit inside.
- Attach the window vent kit to the open space in the window. Make sure that there is a good seal between the window and the vent kit. You don’t want any insects or air transfer from the outside.
- Connect the exhaust hose to the vent kit. Once you have the window vent kit attached to your window, connect your portable air conditioner’s exhaust hose to it.
Can you vent a portable air conditioner through a screen?
Venting a portable air conditioner through a screen is not the ideal situation. No matter what, venting through a screen will reduce the effectiveness of your portable AC. But it can work very well in a pinch depending on the situation.
Ideally, you would remove the screen if you vent your portable AC through a window. But there are situations where removing the screen is not an option.
If you need to vent your portable air conditioner through a screen, you’ll need to ensure that the screen is clean. A dirty screen will impede airflow and reduce your air conditioner’s efficiency.
You also need to consider what type of screen it is. Thin screens will maximize airflow, while thick screens will impede airflow. So a thin screen is better. As a general rule of thumb, if you can clearly see through the screen, then it will be okay to vent your portable AC through it.
While venting a portable air conditioner through a screen, you will also need to periodically clean the screen. The screen will accumulate dust and debris from the airflow of the AC exhaust. Take a look at the screen at least every week and clean it if it gets dirty.
Can you vent a portable air conditioner through a return vent?
Venting a portable AC through a return vent is, for the most part, a bad choice.
Venting a portable air conditioner through a cold air return vent is a bad idea. This is because it will make your home’s central cooling system to work much harder.
As your portable AC dumps heat into the return vent, that heat goes back into your home’s central AC system. Your central AC system will have to also work to remove this heat from your home.
Basically, your home’s AC will be working twice as hard to remove heat from the space that you are cooling with the portable AC.
However, this method can work well if there are no other options to vent directly outside. If your home’s central AC system has enough capacity to remove more heat, then it should cause no issues.
As always, you should consult with an HVAC professional before attempting to do something like this.
In any case, venting a portable AC through a return vent should just be a temporary solution while you work on getting permanent means of venting in place.
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I still didnt fully understand how this thing worked, but it didnt matter. - How much do you want for him. Nadka poked me with her elbow in the side: -What are you. What for is he to us. -Then I'll tell you.