Browning x bolt torque specs

Browning x bolt torque specs DEFAULT

Always verify that your firearm is UN-LOADED before performing any service on it. Warne recommends that you loosely assemble rings and scope onto firearm prior to final mounting to verify eye relief and ring spacing.

    • Visually inspect your firearm’s receiver for burrs around the screw holes and remove if necessary. Remove all oil and grease from the holes in the receiver, the base screws and contact surfaces.
    • Place the base(s)/rail on the receiver.
    • Check for proper fit and alignment.
    • Browning X-Bolt receivers require the shorteer screws to be used in the front base, towards the barrel. Please use caution tightening the front screws.
    • Using a T-15 wrench (supplied with WARNE rings) loosely install the supplied Torx 15 screws.
    • If base(s)/rail fit properly, firmly tighten screws.
    • Taken from the Browning website for X-Bolt Base/Rail installation, TORQUING THE SCREWS*. For X-Bolt rifles, the torque specification for attaching a base/rail should not exceed 18-inch-pounds.
    • WARNE recommends the use of a REMOVABLE thread locking compound on base/rail installations only, for best results.
      • *Never torque your base screws beyond the firearm manufacturers’ recommended torque rating.

IMPORTANT: NEVER OVER TIGHTEN ANY BASE OR RING SCREW. NEVER ATTACH A SCOPE IF THE OBJECTIVE TOUCHES THE BARREL OR CAUSES INTERFERENCE WITH THE BOLT, SAFETY OR CYCLING OF THE ACTION. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE FIREARM OR SCOPE MANUFACTURERS’ RECOMMENDED TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN GUNSMITHING METHODS.

⇒ If you are unsure or do not have the proper tools, please contact a gunsmith for assistance, Warne will not be held liable for stripped/damaged receivers or scopes.

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Torque Specs on Action??#309143906/09/09
JohnMosesOfflineOP

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Hi,

Got a Browning X-Bolt in 7MM WSW last week. To adjust the trigger you have to remove the bottom metal. These are the same screws that hold the barreled action in the stock.

The book that came with the rifle says to just snug them back. Well, I called Browning and the rep I spoke with said the correct Torque spec for the action screws was 65 in/lbs. both front and rear. I asked if he was sure and he said he was.

Does this sound like alot to you? I've heard of pillar bedded rifles taking that much but not wood stocked rifles.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Best,

Dee


Last edited by SevenOaks; 06/09/09.


Re: Torque Specs on Action?? [Re: JohnMoses] #309176306/09/09
orion03Offline

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My Wheeler Engineering torque wrench specifies 40 inch pounds for a wood stock with no pillar bedding.



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Re: Torque Specs on Action?? [Re: orion03] #309286106/10/09

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hemiallenOffline

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Weatherby told me 55 inch pounds for my Ultralight, aluminum bedding block stock.

Allen


Re: Torque Specs on Action?? [Re: hemiallen] #309431706/11/09
DanAdairOffline

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Have you established what the Blue Torque is yet? Its 5 In./Lbs less than that laugh


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Re: Torque Specs on Action?? [Re: DanAdair] #309433006/11/09
GaryVAOffline

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My 2cents; most modern recievers, action screws, and bottom metal are made of such construction that such components can easily obtain the highter torque specifications without damage. But, the stocks and their inlets is a different matter as wood is wood and some of the factor stocks are poorly inleted leaving the barreled action in a bind. In such cases, I generally torque factory wood stocks as tight as I can just short of binding the action up to around 35 to 40 inch-pounds. Some of the current factory wood stocks such as the Ruger Hawkeye are made of excellent wood which is factory CNC inletted with a design that can easily exceed this torque setting, but in general terms I go no higher that that which will either bind the action or crush the stock.

Properly installed pillars along with a proper inlet will allow a wood stock to be torqued to a higher setting without binding or crushing and I generally torque these in the 50 inch-pound range though many go to 65 inch-pounds as a rule of thumb. On a fiberglass stock with or without pillars that is properly inletted I generally go 65 inch-pounds. An aluminum bedding block that is properly bedded is in this same category.

As an added twist, on most current factory mkII and Hawkeye Rugers that are factory inletted without proper bedding, I have found that torquing the front screw to 35 inch-pounds, rear screw to 25 inch-pounds, and middle screw to 15 inch-pounds is as high as I can go on average before the action begins to bind.

Hope this is of some help.



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Re: Torque Specs on Action?? [Re: DixieFreedomz] #309565706/11/09

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atkinsonhuntingOffline

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Well all those different numbers by all those "experts" once again gives credence to my idea that most of these guys turn therory into fact...

Torque in a bolt action is pretty much bunk IMO..I tighten the screws a bit at a time to keep things even until very snug, then release the rear screw just a tad. I want screws slots to face North and South for sure...That has always seemed to work for me..the main thing is don't put warp stresses on the action. If I bed a stock I could actually do away with the rear screw but I don't instead I just don't put any real torgue on it.

I have one of those torque screwdrivers but gave it up years ago and it now gathers dust.

On a piller bedded action real snug will work as well as anything else, then mark the position of your screw slots when accuracy shows up best.



Ray Atkinson
www.atkinsonhunting.com
[email protected]
208-326-4120

Re: Torque Specs on Action?? [Re: atkinsonhunting] #309576606/11/09
JohnMosesOfflineOP

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I called browning again and this Tech said there is no spec but the factory uses 35 in/lbs.

I told him of my previous conversation and asked why don't they settle on a number.

Hell, those guys are there to take orders for new clips, don't know balls about the product.

I took it to a smith and am gonna have him install pillars and glass bed the thing properly.



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#1461148 - 12/28/0909:54 PMinch/pds? for retightening stock
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Loc: Choctaw, Oklahoma

I have a new browning x-bolt 22-250. I took the stock off to adjust the trigger. I just bought a FAT wrench and was wondering what inch/pds to tighten the screws too. The instructions that came with it is pretty vague and says to use like 40 inch/pds and I have had a few people tell me 60-70 inch/pds. this is a pretty good stretch. I know a lot of you guys know your stuff about guns so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


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#1461179 - 12/28/0910:04 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: okiekiyi]
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Wood stocks = 40-45 in lbs.
Fiberglass, pilar bedded, etc. = 60-65 in lbs.
Rimfires = 25-30 in lbs.

Most important is to be consistent each time you take the stock off and put it back on.

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#1461189 - 12/28/0910:08 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: okiekiyi]
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65 inch/pounds sounds right, but honestly youd be better off to just give browning a call as ask them to be sure. If you overtighted the action screws it can make a big differece on your accuracy. Ive seen it open up a 3/4" gun to a 2" gun at a 100 yds by just simply overtightening the action screws (screws in the stock).


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#1461245 - 12/28/0910:34 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: trevor73402]
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Loc: Choctaw, Oklahoma

thanks guys I appreciate your replies.


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#1461384 - 12/29/0912:01 AMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: okiekiyi]
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Loc: North West Arizona

If that Browning is a wooden stock and you use 40 " pounds be shure to relieve it after you have returned from hunting.
If there are Pillars in that stock tighten to 45" pounds and try it in 5" pound increments, if the bedding or pillars are good you probably won't see much improvement over 40" pounds.
Clarence


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#1461564 - 12/29/0907:50 AMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: cdupuy]
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If that Browning is a wooden stock and you use 40 " pounds be shure to relieve it after you have returned from hunting.



WHAT???
Are you telling me that you loosen your action screws before storing your rifles or did I not understand your post?

I use 45"lbs on all my rifles.. Which seems to work fine on wood, Kevlar with alum. chassis, and pillars.
The FAT wrench says "up to 65"lbs on pillar bedded stocks",, but I bought one of Darrel Hollands excellent stocks a while back that came with an instructional video on how to install his pillars..
He recomended 45"lbs in the tape,, so that's what I go with..
I figured he knows quite a bit more than a bunch of internet experts,,, like me.. smile
One thing that's important (IMO) is to stand the rifle up on the recoil pad before torquing so that the weight of the barreled action pushes the recoil lug back firmly against the stock..

Luck
Charlie




Edited by RePete (12/29/0908:16 AM)

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#1461566 - 12/29/0907:53 AMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: RePete]
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Loc: Montana

New marlin XL syn stock, thirty five inch pounds per Marlin..


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#1461789 - 12/29/0912:03 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: Brasshound]
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65 inch pounds is the standard that most people use on synthetic. But McMillian says use less. I would call Browning and ask them. 45 inch pounds is probably plenty but the big think is CONSISTENCY. If you always retighten to the same specs, you'll find that the rifle may stay zeroed or very close to it.

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#1461805 - 12/29/0912:19 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: Bluedeacon]
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65 inch pounds is the standard that most people use on synthetic. But McMillian says use less. I would call Browning and ask them. 45 inch pounds is probably plenty but the big think is CONSISTENCY. If you always retighten to the same specs, you'll find that the rifle may stay zeroed or very close to it.



Not only that, but if you get a stock torqued properly, a poor shooting factor rifle might suddenly and mysteriously start shooting pretty well.

Whoever puts actions in rifle stocks for gun makers must be required to be related to an 800 pound gorilla. Factory rifles almost always can use some re-torquing out of the box...

The purpose of a rifle stock is to hold the barreled action securely..... It's not there to see if you can bend the barreled action with the stock

-BCB

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#1461820 - 12/29/0912:31 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: Bayou City Boy]
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Loc: Northern MI

Nobody has brought up bottom metal yet. I'll go tight on steel bottom metal but some of these rifles out here are running cheap pot metal, or even plastic. I wouldn't go gettin all white knuckle gorilla tight on cheap quality bottom metal.

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#1461962 - 12/29/0902:33 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: brdeano]
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Posts: 5783
Loc: Idaho (Clearwater County)

Nobody has brought up bottom metal yet. I'll go tight on steel bottom metal but some of these rifles out here are running cheap pot metal, or even plastic. I wouldn't go gettin all white knuckle gorilla tight on cheap quality bottom metal.



Good point Brad
That's one of the beauties of Hollands propriatory pillars.. They take the bottom metal/trigger guard out of the equasion with an allen head action screw that's threaded inside. Kind of a screw into a screw. Hard to explain, but on an ADL type action the trigger guard can be removed without effecting the action screws.. Clear as mud??
I can post a pic of it if ya want.. It's deffinatly a well thought out set up..
Charlie

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#1467479 - 01/02/1012:58 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: RePete]
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Loc: A desert called Mohave, 6' Nor...

That bottom metal thing, I'am really starting to wonder about. I have a Remington 600, in 308, with the plastic trigger guard that I have been fighting for over a year due to accuracy issues. I have another post on it, in the firearms section. And I ordered up a metal floorplate/trigger guard for it.

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#1467946 - 01/02/1007:44 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: Bluedeacon]
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Registered: 07/26/09
Posts: 20
Loc: NY

Honestly, every rifle can end up being different. Had a model 70 winchester that had a sweet spot, that would shoot wonderfully, when tightened properly. If time allows, I'd go a quarter turn past snug, and shoot groups, torqeing it a bit, and find the honeyhole.
OTF


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#1468259 - 01/02/1010:32 PMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: On the fence]
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Registered: 05/10/09
Posts: 1697
Loc: Sandy Oregon

I invested in a Wheeler Fat wrench a while back and used it on my Rem 700 SPS and it made a big difference in the accuracy of this rifle to the good. It shrunk my groups by about 1/2 inch. Wont complain about dime size groups from a stock rifle.

The way I look at it is the action screws need to be tight but not to the point of putting stress on the action.


DAB



Edited by DAB (01/02/1010:34 PM)
Edit Reason: Spelling

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#1468466 - 01/03/1001:19 AMRe: inch/pds? for retightening stock [Re: DAB]
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Registered: 04/03/09
Posts: 21
Loc: Maine

Torqueing action screws is like ammo, each gun has it's own sweet spot and ammo it likes best therefore factory specs are just a starting point. Tightening action screws in a wood stock that is not pillar bedded is almost futile because you are only compressing wood fibers and every change in humidity or atmospheric pressure changes your point of impact. Pillar bedded stocks will let you torque metal to metal which is not effected by air pressure or humidity if your barrel is free floated and not touching wood. Take a couple of boxes of ammo your gun likes best and start grouping and changing the torque, some torque screwdrivers will let you do 1/2 in/lb increments, till you get the best groups. I like to write each guns combination of ammo and torque in the stock that way if you don't have your shooting journal you can always recreate optimal conditions. I have 3-10/22s and each one has a different sweet spot and ammo it likes best.

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Browning X Bolt Trigger Spring Kit - Browning X Bolt Trigger Adjustment - M*CARBO

What is a 20 MOA rail?  A rail is a one-piece base that when attached to your receiver is angling down toward the barrel's bore centerline. The most common slopes at 20 Minutes of Angle. That is approximately .33 degrees. What is the benefit of an angled rail?

  • When a scope is mounted it initially is zeroed to a target usually at 100 to 200 yards.
  • You only need a sloped rail if you will be dialing your scope for longer ranges. Longer ranges are usually 500 or 600 yards and beyond.
  • With many scopes at longer ranges, you run out of crosshair vertical adjustment beyond 600 yards.
  • To solve this, you can use a 20 MOA rail which, after zeroing, leaves extra adjustment for dialing in at very long ranges. 

If you don't have a scope made for dialing in longer ranges and if you don't usually shoot beyond 500 or 600 yards, you don't really need a slanted rail. 

20 MOA is not a lot, but it can move a tight scope objective too close to the barrel, causing it to touch. To be safe, order the next higher rings when using a 20 MOA rail, especially with a target or semi-target barrel. 

Importantly, if you are using a scope with a ballistic compensating reticle, you probably don't need or want a 20MOA rail. 

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Torque browning specs bolt x

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